• Understand
• Get around
• See
• Do
• Buy
• Eat
• Drink
• Sleep
• Get out

Anechoic room, Yokosuka Research Park

Yokosuka (横須賀) [1] is a major city in Kanagawa prefecture, Japan.

[edit] Understand

Yokosuka has long played a part in Japan's naval history. Commodore Matthew Perry's landing in the area in the 1850s initiated the country's modernization, and today it is the site of a major naval facility used by the United States and Japanese forces. During World War Two, it was spared the heavy bombing which was the fate of many other Japanese cities, as the US military had already chosen it as a post-war base location.

[edit] Get in

The fastest way to reach Yokosuka is to take the Keikyu Line train into Yokosuka-Chuo (横須賀中央) station. Be careful not to take the JR Yokosuka line, which will bring you to JR Yokosuka station, which is about 2.5 kilometres from the city centre.

[edit] By plane

If traveling directly to Yokosuka from Narita Airport, you can take the Narita Express to Shinagawa and switch to the Keikyu Line (2 hours; ¥3930 [¥3310 JR fare + ¥620 Keikyu fare]). With the Japan Rail Pass it costs only ¥620 for the Keikyu line.

From Haneda Airport, take the Keikyu line and change trains at Keikyu-Kamata station (50 minutes; ¥790). A few Keikyu trains continue on to Yokosuka; these services reverse direction at Keikyu-Kamata and are joined to another train at Kawasaki.

[edit] By train

The fastest Keikyu trains (the Limited Express "green trains" - referring to the color of the sign on the train, not of the train itself) make the run to Yokosuka-Chuo in 43 minutes from Shinagawa station (¥620). Many trains from the Toei Asakusa subway line continue on to the Keikyu Line. The ride takes about one hour from Nihombashi (日本橋) station (¥900).

You can also take the slower JR Yokosuka Line on the lower level of Tokyo Station. Take any train bound for Yokosuka or Kurihama (75 minutes; ¥1050; no charge with Japan Rail Pass).

[edit] Get around

Yokosuka's local bus system is notoriously unfriendly to English-speakers. Get on at the door halfway down the bus, and take a ticket from the dispenser. Get off at the front, paying the amount displayed on the price screen which corresponds to the number on your ticket. Taxis are plentiful and cost ¥660 for the first two kilometers. There is a higher charge for nighttime taxi rides.

[edit] See

• Travelers won't be able to see much of Yokosuka Naval Base, headquarters of the U.S. Navy's Seventh Fleet, but sailors based there are a common sight around the city, and certainly add to its atmosphere. Once a year, the base hosts a "Friendship Day", allowing Japanese nationals to tour the base.

• The Battleship Mikasa (戦艦三笠) was Admiral Togo's flagship in the Russo-Japanese war (1904-1905), and in the Battle of Tsushima it led to the annihilation of Russian forces. Entry costs 500 yen; English signage is present, but English-speaking staff is hit or miss. The surrounding Mikasa park is free, and features a recurring fountain show.

• The Perry Landing Park (ペリー上陸記念公園) marks the place where the infamous "black ships" landed, forcing the Tokugawa Shogunate to accede to the opening up of Japan to international trade. The park is located in Kurihama (久里浜), a few stops away by either the Keikyu or JR train line.

• Also in Kurihama is Kurihama Flower World or Kurihama Hana-no-Kuni (くりはま花の国). This park is renowned for its 1 million blooming poppies from Mid-May to Mid-June, and beautiful cosmos flowers from September-mid October. It also has a nice herb garden and children's play area with a large Godzilla slide. Area map from Kurihama station

• Yokosuka Research Park, 3-4 Hikari-no-Oka (shuttle bus from Keikyu's YRP Nobi station), [2]. Not exactly a tourist attraction, this vast research complex is devoted to telecommunications in all shapes and sizes. You won't be able to see much if you show up unannounced, but symposia and meetings are held here regularly and usually include guided tours with companies showing off their latest and greatest.

• Sarushima Island (ferry from Mikasa Park) is a old fortress and nature preserve in Tokyo Bay. Fishing, a small beach, and tidal pools are all features.

[edit] Do

Visit the Earthquake Awareness and Preparation Center, located near Yokosuka city hall. Visitors must sit through a Japanese language video presentation, but then can experience a strong earthquake in controlled surroundings, learn how to avoid injury, put out fires, and escape a smoky building. Visitors receive an English-language mock newspaper page outlining how their quick actions saved lives.

It is possible to attend a minor-league baseball game in the summer and fall. The Shonan Searex play at Yokosuka Stadium, the ticket cost is 1000Y. The stadium is a 10 minute walk from Oppama Station on the Keikyu line.Shonan Searex

[edit] Buy

• Saikaya Department Store - Traditional department store spanning two blocks, between Yokosuka-Chuo station and the Navy base.

• Daiei Shopper's Plaza - On the waterfront adjacent to the Navy base and JR station; 5 floors, including a cinema, supermarket, food court and restaurants.

• Mikasa Mall - An open-air mall on "Blue Street" between the Navy base and Yokosuka-Chuo station.

• Avenue 580 - On "Blue Street" between the Navy base and Yokosuka-Chuo station.

• More's City - Immediately adjacent to Yokosuka-Chuo station. Two floors of restaurants with a great view of the harbor, and a basement floor with food hall and small supermarket.

[edit] Eat

Yokosuka claims to be the place of origin of the quintessentially Japanese dish curry rice, and it seems everywhere you turn there's a sign for "Navy curry" (海軍カレー kaigun karee). It's not idle boasting, though, as the dish is believed to have been introduced in the late 19th century by British sailors who regularly ate the easily-preserved meal.

Food halls are under the Saikaya department store, More's City shopping plaza, and Avenue 580 shopping arcade. Saikaya and More's also feature floors of restaurants, as does the Daiei Shopper's Plaza on the waterfront.

• Bueno, More's 1F (under Starbucks). Designed by famous prize-winner at designer's week 2001 Tokyo. Very nice food and wine, English menu available. Relaxing atmosphere, English-speaking staff.

[edit] Drink

Yokosuka's best-known bar district is The Honch, directly across the street from the CFAY Naval Base and a popular haunt of American sailors stationed nearby. The Honch encompasses parts of Honcho 1-chome, 2-chome and 3-chome and runs parallel to Route 16 from Chūō-o-dori ("Blue Street" in sailor slang, due to the blue-painted asphalt) all the way to Shiori-eki, basically covering the entire commercial district between Yokosuka Chūō and Shioiri stations.

The Honch is home to dozens of different bars, eateries and nightclubs. Most take both US dollars and Japanese yen, but use a 1:100 exchange rate (1 US cent = 1 Japanese yen). These establishments range from traditional Japanese-style bars to American-oriented hang-outs, catering primarily to American sailors. Additionally, there are several "buy-me-a-drink" bars located in the area, typically staffed by Filipina women. There are also a number of "Japanese only" bars in the area which cater only to the local Japanese businessmen who wish to drink and socialize in a place free of rowdy sailors and Marines.

• The Morrigans. A popular and relatively genuine Irish bar. Frequented mainly by US Navy, but also local Japanese, drinks are reasonably priced, there is a food menu and English is spoken. It is located across from the US Navy base and slightly to the left, on Route 16.

[edit] Sleep

• Hotel New Yokosuka, [3]. A very nice hotel right across the street from the CFAY Yokosuka Naval Base.

• Hotel Goddess, located right across the street from Cross On. A legendary love hotel used frequently by sailors and their companions for the evening. Easily spotted by the large replica of the Statue of Liberty on its roof, and the Irish bar "The Morrigans" on the ground floor.

• Hotel Trinity, [4]. An 18-floor hotel located next to Shiori station. Includes a bar and restaurant on its top floors.

[edit] Get out

• From Kurihama, you can catch the Tokyo Bay Ferry to the cliffs of Nokogiriyama in Chiba.
• The beach town of Zushi is nearby.
• It is only 20 minutes, 210 Yen, from Yokosuka Station (JR line) to the city of Kamakura.