Europe > Eastern Europe > Caucasus > Azerbaijan > Sheki Region > Sheki
Sheki
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 Sheki (Şəki; also Seki or Shaki) is a city in the Sheki Region of Azerbaijan.
[edit] UnderstandFew foreigners visit Azerbaijan beyond the capital city, Baku. In so doing, they overlook a true gem in Sheki. The small city of Sheki has a whole lot to offer by way of historic attractions; in particular, the Palace of the Sheki Khans (Khansarai) is a magnificent work of Islamic architecture. Its setting is stunning; it lies in the rolling, thickly forested foothills, which spread out to the south, while to the immediate north are the dramatic, snow-capped peaks of the Greater Caucasus. The possibilities for treks into the unspoilt mountain landscapes are endless, and are alone a great reason to visit the city. But more than anything, the relaxed pace of life evident in Sheki's central market and tea houses makes the city a welcome respite from whatever cares you may have. A relatively small city, Sheki has a population of about 63,000. It is situated in northern Azerbaijan on the southern part of the Greater Caucasus mountain range, 325km (200 miles) from the capital city Baku and not far from the Georgian border. Sheki is located at an altitude of 500m (1,640 ft).  [edit] HistoryThroughout the history of the city, Sheki has swung between independence and foreign domination. In its earlier centuries, Sheki was the seat of an Albanian kingdom, which was invaded repeatedly by the Persian, Roman, Parthian, Arab, Mongolian, and other empires. In the past millennium, Sheki fell under the influence and often the direct rule of Persia or the Shirvanshahs of Baku. Shortly after the 18th century collapse of the Safavid Empire, Sheki became the capital of the independent Sheki Khanate, during which time the Khansarai was built. But Sheki's independence did not last long; it was absorbed in the early 19th century by an expansionist Russian Empire. Due to Sheki's rather tumultuous political history (in a tumultuous region), the majority of Sheki's preserved historic and architectural monuments date from only the 16th-19th centuries. [edit] Climate
[edit] Get in[edit] By taxiUntil the airport begins operating again, the fastest transport between Baku and Sheki is by taxi — it takes about 5 hours and costs 40 AZN; if you share the ride with other people, it will cost around 10 AZN per person. A taxi is also a fine, if more expensive, way to get to Georgia, and you should have no trouble finding a taxi, bus, or marshrutka onward from the border at Lagodekhi to Tbilisi. [edit] By trainThe train station has a somewhat inconvenient location about 17km from the city center. In order to reach the station you will either have to take a taxi for 3 AZN or hop on a Baku-bound bus or minibus and ask the driver to drop you off by the railroad station, and then walk about 0.2 km to the station. There are night trains that run from Baku-Balakan and make a stop in Sheki. There is also a Balakan-Baku train that passes through Sheki. Passengers must produce their passports in order to buy tickets. It would be wise to purchase a ticket for the luxury carriage in advance. You can contact Mr. Xemlet at 994 50 672-5538 or Mr. Arxan at 994 55 672-5758 to make advanced reservations. The basic carriage (plaskard) costs 2.60 AZN, the middle class (coupe) costs 3.60 AZN, and the luxury carriage (SV/Super Vagon) costs 5 AZN. Make sure that you receive all of your change from the ticket counter, as they often try to shortchange foreigners.  Daily departure times to the Sheki terminal: Daily departure times from the Sheki terminal: [edit] By bus or minibus
This is one of the more tedious ways to get to Sheki, taking nearly 7 hours, because the mountain pass used by cars and marshrutkas would be out of the question for a large bus. Although slower, buses are more comfortable than marshrutka, although the ones with air conditioning overdo the cold air in a big way. The fare to/from Baku is 6 AZN.
Minibuses (Marshrutka) run between many of the major cities to the Sheki bus station (avtovağzal), and take 6 hours to/from Baku. Use your discretion when riding the minibuses as the condition of both vehicles and drivers vary—this matters, given the exceptionally steep road, full of sharp curves, that awaits. The fare is 6 AZN. The Sheki bus terminal ticket counter opens 6:30AM-5PM and 8PM-midnight (holidays 10:30AM-11:30PM). Call the cashier at 0177-4-46-17. The ticket vendors at the terminal speak Russian, Turkish, and Azeri. Bus/minibus departure times to the Sheki terminal: Bus/minibus departure times from the Sheki terminal:
[edit] Get around Though a large city by the standards of Azerbaijan, it's easy enough to get around the city center and all the main sights on foot. The sloping terrain of the city, however, may tax older visitors, but it's also easy to get around using taxis and, for the adventurous, marshrutkas. [edit] By taxiTaxis charge 40-60 qapick and are quite convenient if you know where you want to go within the city. Addresses are quite useless in Azerbaijan as many roads have recently been renamed (since independence), so it's better to direct the driver to a landmark you know of such as a school, hotel, or historic place. [edit] By bus or minibusBuses and minibuses operate from 7:00-20:00, charge 20 qapick, and go to many different locations throughout the city. There are 24 routes throughout the city, and most of these buses either stop in the bus terminal, the city center, or the new bazaar. Routes: 1a — Silk factory; ziyarit; radio tower; post office; hospital; bus terminal; gushlek drug store; pavilion; Olympic complex 3a — New bazaar; radio tower; silk factory; teacher's school; The Palace of the Sheki Khans; genceli mehel; Caravansary; post office 4 — New bazaar; K/T Axundov; hospital; bus terminal; gas office; pavilion 5 — New bazaar; bus terminal; old bazaar; silk factory; qrensh zavod; bagbanlar street 6 — Okhud village 7 — Olympic complex; bus terminal; hospital; theater; old bazaar; silk factory; university; dodu 8 — New bazaar; bus terminal; hospital; near school number 10; silk factory; dodu 9 — Silk factory; bus terminal; olympic complex 11 — New Bazaar; bus terminal; old bazaar; Caravansary; The Palace of the Sheki Khans; children's hospital; Olympic complex 14 — New bazaar; gushlek drug store; pavilion; number 11 school 15 — Kish; dodu; new bazaar 17 — First region; children's hospital; The Palace of the Sheki Khans; Caravansary; old bazaar; bus terminal; new bazaar 18 — Bus terminal; guyumler; sarabski kuche; asphalt mill; new bazaar; olympic complex 20 — Bus terminal; new bazaar 22 — Olympic complex; bus terminal; hospital; theater; old bazaar; Caravansary; The Palace of the Sheki Khans; children's hospital 23 — Bazaar; Dodu; Kish's 1st Bus Stop; Kish's 2nd Bus Stop near number 3 school 24 — Pavilion; number 20 school; executive committee; radio tower; recreation zone; new bazaar [edit] TalkWhile Sheki is a natural tourist destination, English is not widely spoken, so it would be wise to either bring an Azeri phrasebook and/or brush up on your Azeri, Russian, or Turkish before arriving. The accent of Sheki is a bit quicker than that of standard Azeri and instead of the k sound it is often replaced with a kh. and Sheki-specific vocabulary is often used instead of common Azeri vocabulary words. [edit] See
[edit] Itineraries[edit] Sights
[edit] Parks and Monuments
[edit] Museums and Galleries
[edit] Do
[edit] HikingThere is endless spectacular hiking to be done throughout the northern region of Azerbaijan, and Sheki proves no exception.
22km (10km by car, 12km hiking); 6 hours. This path takes you from Kish's Albanian church to the "Gelersen-Gorersen fortress" via the Kish river and through pine groves with a plethora of varieties of mushrooms growing in the underbrush. Walking to the fortress takes about two hours; once there you can explore the different views of the Kish River from the peaks of the mountains. The way back from the mountain is a great time to have a picnic beneath the trees on the hills overlooking the valley.
46km (32km by car, 14km hiking); 13 hours. This route meanders by two ancient Albanian churches, continues up a long path to the Khanyaylaghi peak, and on to the Markhal recreation areas, where you can have dinner. From this area you can travel to Sheki by car. 
55.5km (48.5km by car, 7km hiking); 11 hours. After travelling to Bashkyungyut and visiting the ruins of the Albanian Church on the edge of the village, continue up the path and you can see two Albanian monuments situated 5km from each other. Opon reaching Bideiz village, you can return via car to Sheki.
82km (78km by car, 4km hiking); 12 hours. This road passes through the Keshnazar Valley, where it opens to a very beautiful panorama. Rest at the "Hunter's House" cabin then hike to the ancient fortress at the top of a steep peak. After walking around, you can return to Sheki. [edit] Guided tours[edit] Buy
Sheki has just started bottling mineral water from Markhal, an area right outside of the city of Sheki. A bottle is an inexpensive, but refreshing and healthy purchase. Markhal water can be purchased at the market 5 meters up the hill from the central post office and throughout Sheki.
 Sheki is on the Silk Road, and has had a major silk industry for a long time. There is still a silk factory ipək kombinat in the city, from which a great variety of silk items are crafted, one of the most famous being the silk scarves-kalagayi. The scarves range in price from 5 to 100 AZN. Sheki scarves can be purchased at the silk factory, the Caravansarai, or at the bazaar. Bazaars
[edit] ATMs
International Bank of Azerbaijan locations
[edit] Eat[edit] Regional Specialties
[edit] Restaurants[edit] Drink[edit] Tea Houses (Çay Xanalar)There is a nice outdoor tea house (çay xana) by the Khansarai that serves tea and halva to people in their own individual nooks. Most çay xanalar also serve local beer (piva)—draft at 50 qapick/glass or bottles at 70 qapick/bottle—or vodka (araq) at 2 AZN/bottle. For anything exotic (e.g. tequila, gin, or rum), you will have to go to the Sheki Saray bar and pay Western prices there. [edit] CafésThe only good coffee to be found (besides Nescafe or Mac Coffee) is in the lobby of the Sheki Saray Hotel. This is where you can get your favorite espresso concoction made by Western-trained staff. The Café Mocha and Cafe Late here are some of the best hot drinks in the regions of Azerbaijan. They also offer a variety of teas. There is a good Turkish bakery next to the New Bazaar, where you can eat local pastries. The same items can also be ordered next door at the Istanbul Restaurant, which has a nicer atmosphere. Their tastiest cake is the Snickers Cake, although it is a bit pricey (.5 AZN).
[edit] Sleep[edit] Bed & breakfast / home stays
[edit] Budget [edit] Midrange[edit] Splurge[edit] Cope
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[edit] Stay safe[edit] Emergency Contact Numbers
The city hospital is near the center of Sheki, right across the street from the Drama Theater. You must speak Azeri, Russian, or Turkish to communicate your needs. It would be a good idea to memorize key phrases before coming to Azerbaijan — see the Talk section for phrasebooks. [edit] Safety Tips
[edit] Get out[edit] Day trips
[edit] Onward
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