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Sendai

Sendai (仙台) [1] is the largest city (about 1,000,000 people) in the Tohoku region of Japan's Honshu island.

[edit] Understand

Sendai is divided into five districts: Aoba-ku, Izumi-ku, Miyagino-ku, Taihaku-ku and Wakabayashi-ku.

As everyone here will tell you, "it's not too big and not too small, it's very convenient and it's close to both the sea and the mountains." Sendai is a comfortable and pleasant city — it's a nice place to live. It's very green — in fact they call it 杜の都 (Mori no Miyako, "Forest City"). The main avenues around the city are wide and tree-lined, giving the city an almost European feel. The main shopping street — confusingly known by two different names, Chūō-dōri (中央通り) and Clis Road — is pedestrianised and covered, so it feels like a mall. Several large universities are located in Sendai, attracting young adults from throughout the Tohoku area.

[edit] History

Although there is evidence of settlements in the Sendai region dating back over 20,000 years, it was not until the local feudal ruler, Date Masamune, moved his capital here in 1600 that the city began to take on any signifance. He established a fine castle on Aobayama (green leaf mountain) and the town that was built below the castle near the Hirose River was built according to the traditional street grid pattern. The original name of the area was also Sendai, but the Chinese characters for this name were changed. Originally they referred to a temple on Aobayama that housed a thousand Buddha statues. Later, Date Matsume changed the Chinese characters to mean 'hermit on a platform,' which referred to a mythical palace in the mountains in China. It is this latter name that is currently used by the present-day city.

[edit] Climate

There are two ways of looking at the weather here. One is the way most Japanese people seem to look at it: it's not too cold in the winter and not too hot in the summer. Others find it chilly year round. There is a long rainy season which starts just after the cherry-blossom blooms in April and sometimes continues right into Autumn.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Sendai Airport (SDJ) [2]) mainly functions as a domestic airport with regular flights to Sapporo, Nagoya, Osaka, Hiroshima, Fukuoka, Okinawa and Kanazawa. However, there are also a few international flights to neighboring countries, such as South Korea, Taiwan and China.

The airport is linked to the city with the Sendai Airport Access [3] railway, which takes 17-25 minutes to JR Sendai Station and costs ¥630.

[edit] By train

Sendai is a major station on the Tohoku Shinkansen (bullet train) line, some two hours from Tokyo. The line continues north to Morioka and Hachinohe.

The fastest ride from Tokyo is on the all-reserved Hayate service, which makes just two stops (at Ueno and Ōmiya) and runs to Sendai in 1 hour, 40 minutes (¥10590). The Komachi service bound for Akita is coupled to the Hayate train, but bear in mind that Komachi cars are slightly narrower, and therefore, so is seating.

[edit] By bus

Many highway buses run to Sendai from various locations in the Tohoku region.

JR Bus Tohoku and Tohoku Kyuko bus operate highway bus service to Sendai from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo. There are five daytime trips and one overnight trip. Each run takes 5 1/2 hours at a cost of ¥6210.

An overnight bus service also runs directly from Yokohama and Shinagawa, costing ¥6500 from Yokohama (6 1/2 hours) and ¥6200 from Shinagawa (5 3/4 hours).

Kintetsu runs an overnight bus service, the Forest, from Osaka and Kyoto to Sendai. The one-way ride costs approximately ¥12000 and takes 12 1/4 hours from Osaka and 10 3/4 hours from Kyoto.

123bus [4] is a company with nightly bus services to Sendai from Tokyo. With English online booking service.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By subway

Sendai has one subway line traveling on a north-south axis, connecting major shopping districts with the train station. Key stations include Sendai for the train station and the AER building, Nagamachi-minami for the Mall (large American-style shopping mall including multi-screen cinema), Hirose-dori and Kotodai-koen for access to Ichibancho (covered shopping arcade), and Izumi-chuo for the soccer stadium.

[edit] By bus

Adventurous types can try the bus system to reach those areas not covered by the subway. There are a few resources that help english speakers navigate, but it helps if you know the city. Fortunately for tourists there is a "Loople Sendai" bus that makes a wide loop around to various Sendai attractions for 600Y for a whole day, or 250Y for one ride.

[edit] On foot

The city center is compact and can easily be traversed on foot, especially by using the covered shopping arcades. There are many shops and arcades around Sendai station and therefore people could walk around by them own.

[edit] See

Sendai is not what you'd call a tourist city - it was flattened in the war and rebuilt after that so there really isn't much to see in terms of historical sights - in fact sights of any kind. The most famous sight in Sendai is the train station!

• Miyagi Museum of Art (宮城県美術館), 34-1 Kawauchi-Motohasekura, Aoba-ku, [5]. A reasonable collection of modern art. Special room for Juryo Sato a local (but nationally famous) sculptor. Beautiful garden and a nice view of the river.

Aoba Castle Gate

• Aoba Castle (青葉城 Aoba-jō). Often recommended by locals, but what they mean is the site of the old castle - there's actually only a replica of a gate and a statue of the founder of the city, Date Masumune. However, the ruins of Aoba Castle is the theme of a famous poem written by Doi Bansui called 'Kojo no Tsuki' - 'The Moon over the desolate castle'. In the poem, the author touchingly invites us to reflect on the impermanence of all life, which is represented by the ruins of the once great castle caught in the light of the full moon. The poem has been put to music and is famous throughout Japan.

• Ōsaki Hachiman Shrine (大崎八幡宮). Completed in 1607, and is designated a national treasure. The metal ornaments and colorful designs displayed against the black lacquer woodwork is an especially attractive feature.

• There is a huge statue of Kannon (the Buddhist deity of compassion) outside the city that is worth seeing. However, don't expect to find it mentioned in any guides. Ask locals for directions.

• Sendai Mediatheque [6] designed by Toyo Ito is an important piece of contemporary architecture. Take a look at the outstanding structure while enjoying the cafeteria and design shop on ground level.

• Rinno-ji, (輪王寺) 1-14-1 Kitayama, Aoba-ku. +81 22 234-5327 - an historic temple with a large traditional garden, which is especially attractive when the azaleas are in bloom. (bus: “Kitayama - Shiheimachi line,” get off at “Rinno-ji mae”)

• SS 30 Observation Lounge, Higashi Nibancho dori and Kitamenmachi-dori - this office tower has an observation deck on the 29 and 30th floors, which is open and free to the public.

• Yagiyama Zoo.

• Marks of Sendai castle （仙台城跡）is a famous place to visit for many tourists. there is a statue of Masamune Date（伊達政宗）who　built the basis of Sendai city.

• The Museum of the forest of depths of the earth,（地底の森ミュージアム）4-2-1- Nagamachi-Minami, Taihaku-ku, 022-246-9153- The museum of the stone age. In the museum, restoration exhibition of that time is carried out based on the data discovered from public presentation and there of the ruins 20,000-year Saki's Old Stone Age unearthed from Tomizawa ruins(富沢遺跡）

[edit] Do

• The biggest festival in Sendai is Tanabata (七夕). The festival starts with fireworks on Aug 5th and then the festival proper is from Aug 6th to Aug 8th. The streets are decorated with big paper decorations, there's a parade and... well, that's about it.

• In December, there's the Pageant of Starlight which isn't really a festival as such. The trees in two of the city's main avenues - Aoba-dōri and Jōzenji-dōri - are festooned in thousands of orange lights. The effect is is very pleasant, with the orange glow casting a warmth over the otherwise cold and frosty streets.

• The Donto-sai Festival is held at the Osaki Hachiman Shrine on January 14 every year.

• The MIchinoku-Yosakoi Festival is held in Sendai every year.

[edit] Sports

Sendai has a few major sports teams.

• Tohoku Rakuten Golden Eagles - pro baseball Pacific League
• Vegalta Sendai - pro soccer J. League
• Sendai 89ers - basketball Japan League

[edit] Eat

Sendai's specialties include gyūtan (牛タン), grilled beef tongue; sasakamaboko (笹かまぼこ), a type of fish sausage; and zundamochi (ずんだ餅), sweet green soybean paste eaten with soft glutinous rice balls. Sendai-Miso （仙台味噌）has a long history.　Hiyashi-Chuka（冷やし中華）is made in Sendai.

[edit] Japanese

• Rikyu (利久). A famous chain of gyūtan restaurants. Order the teishoku (set meal) - this includes meat, pickles, barley rice, leek, and a clear oxtail soup with real tail. There's one on the corner of Ekimae-dori and Hirose-dori (across from the AER building).

• Oden Sankichi (おでん三吉). 4-10-8 Ichiban-cho, Aoba-ku. This restaurant specializes in oden, a Japanese fish stew of sorts with ingredients slowly simmered for hours if not days in a soy broth. Goes well with beer or sake, and especially popular in winter. A basic (if somewhat small) bowl of oden is just ¥500. Open for lunch and dinner, closed Sundays.

• The basement food hall in the Mitsukoshi department store is an excellent place to sample Sendai's specialties.

• Kaki Toku (かき徳). ４-０-１ Ichiban-cho, Aoba-ku. Miyagi and Hiroshima are famous for oysters, and Kaki Toku, which has been running since 1927, is one of the area's most renowned oyster restaurants. Open: weekdays 11:30AM to 2PM and 5PM to 8PM, Saturdays and holidays 11:30AM to 8PM, and Sundays and last day of successive holidays 11:30AM to 9PM.

[edit] International

• Namaskar, +81 22 257-7702, [7]. Authentic Indian restaurant with two locations. One in the BiVi building (opposite Yodabashi Camera) directly behind Sendai station, on the 4th floor. There they offer an extensive and reasonably priced buffet lunch on Sundays from 11AM-3PM. The other is on Minamimachi-dori. There they occasionally show Indian films and music videos on a large screen and carry a buffet lunch on Saturdays.
• Tirol, Great Italian on Clis Road, or just west of Izumi-chou Subway Station in the north.
• Hummingbird, Italian in Hotel Universe on Ichibancho-dori. Known for its fresh pasta.
• Osamu's Kitchen, fusion of international and Japanese dishes. Located on the third floor on the left of the street leading from Ichibancho into Kokubuncho. Signature dish is cheese fondue served in a crusty round loaf. Also reasonable 'nomihodai'.
• Benitora, Chinese dishes (spicy). Located to the north of the AER building by Sendai station. Cross the pedestrian bridge and look for the big red kanji (means 'red tiger').
• Heichinro, an upscale Chinese restaurant on top of the AER building.

[edit] Vegetarian

• Yuki Kitchen Consultant's Biologic Restaurant Potimaron (vegetarian and macrobiotic), 30-11-1 Kongosawa, Taihaku-ku. +81 22 244-6275.
• Fredrick Pantry, 3-10-1F, Kitame Machi. +81 22 715-8950 - a shop and small restaurant specializing in organic and vegetarian food.

[edit] Drink

[edit] Bars

Due to the numerous universities located near the city center, the nightlife in Sendai is excellent for a city of its size. Several small dance clubs on or around Chuo-dori fill with incredibly energetic young people most nights of the week.

Kokubunchō (国分町) is the main entertainment district. Full of restaurants, izakaya, bars, hostess bars and strip clubs.

• Club Shaft, Dai 3 Yoshiokaya Bld., Kokubuncho 2chome 10-11. +81 22 722-5651. [8] A DJ /Live Band Club and sports bar pub founded by Julian, now owned by Dominic; both from England. Great atmosphere. World food and beers. Can hire for wedding, birthday parties etc. Open everyday 6pm-late. Check Mobile/Keitai website for latest event information. [9]
• Ha'penny Bridge, (near the east exit of Sendai station). A Guinness pub. Open M-Sa 5PM-11PM.
• Vilevan, (on Clis Road near Sendai Station). A jazz bar. Free live jazz on Saturday nights. Last order- is 1AM.
• Ernies Bar, (1st floor Social Building, Sendai-Shi, Aoba-Ku Kokubuncho 2-1-11 (near Hotel Richfield)). A good bar in Kokubuncho frequented by foreigners with whom one can have a decent conversation. The owner and manager, Ernie, creates a cozy and relaxed atmosphere with his own mix of funky jazz, soul and house. Open Tu-Su 6PM-5AM.

[edit] Cafes

• Wadi Halfa 「わでぃはるふぁ」, 2-2-2 O-machi, Aoba-ku, +81 22 225-5241 - this Sendai institution often has live performances of Indian or African music.

[edit] Buy

• Sendai Hira - silk
• tsutsumiyaki - pottery
• yanagiu Washi - hand made paper
• tsuishu - lacquerware
• kokeshi - wooden dolls, popular throughout the Tohoku region.
• Sendai Tansu-Wardrobe
• Sendai Daruma

[edit] Learn

[edit] Buddhist Meditation

• Rinno-ji Temple (輪王寺), 1-14-1 Kitayama, Aoba-ku. +81 22 234-5327 (bus: “Kitayama - Shiheimachi line,” get off at “Rinno-ji mae”). Zazen (meditation) meetings are held every Sa 6:30PM-8PM. Instruction is given in English and participation is free. Wear loose fitting clothing.

[edit] Japanese Language

• Sendai Language School [10], SLS Bldg.5F 1-16-23, Ichiban-cho, Aoba-ku. +81 22 266-8181, Fax: +81 22 266-8182.
• Sendai International Relations Association (SIRA) [11] arranges non-profit Japanese classes at various locations in the city [12].

[edit] Sleep

[edit] Budget

• Sendai-Dochuan Youth Hostel, 31 Kitayashiki, Onoda, Taihaku-ku. +81 22 982-0014. [13] The hostel is located about 5km from down town.
• Maple Sendai Youth Hostel, 1-9-3 Kashiwagi, Aoba-ku. +81 22 234-3922, Fax: +81 22 234-3923. [14]
• Sendai Chitose Youth Hostel, 6-3-8 Odawara, Aoba-ku. +81 22 222-6329, Fax: '+81 22 265-7551. [15]

[edit] Mid-range

• Holiday Inn Sendai, 1-4-1 Shintera, Wakabayashi-ku (6 min from Sendai Station). +81 22 256-5111. [16] Opened in 2001, this modern, fairly pleasant business hotel is within walking distance of Sendai station (at least if you don't have much luggage). Rooms are small but comfortable, and the breakfast buffet is a notch above the usual. Rates from ¥6,500 for a single.
• Hotel Sendai Plaza, 2-20-1 Hon-chou, Aoba-ku. +81 22 262-7111, Fax: +81 22 262-8169. [17]
• Hotelcoms Annex Sendai, 2-8-11 Chuo, Aoba-ku. +81 22 221-8111. [18] Newly opened this buisness hotel was a bargain at the time of writing. Roomsize are above average for a buisness hotel, each room are equiped with a private windows PC and LCD TV, central location near the nightlife district, and rates begin at only 5000¥ for a single.

[edit] Splurge

• Hotel Metropolitan Sendai, 1-1-1 Chuo, Aoba-ku. +81 22 268-2525, Fax: +81 22 268 2521, [19] E-Mail: e-kikaku@s-metro.stbl.co.jp
• Sendai Royal Park Hotel, 6-2-1 teraoka, izumi-ku

[edit] Get out

• Hot springs
  • Akiu is about 40 minutes by bus from Sendai Station (West Exit Bus Pool). Sakkan (a hotel) is right next to the bus stop.
  • Sakunami is about 20 minutes by train on the Senzan Line from Sendai Station.
  • Naruko is popular hot springs in Sendai.

• Matsushima, located about 40 minutes away by local train (Senseki Line), is a bay full of tiny pine covered islands and is recognized as one of the three most beautiful views in Japan.

• Kinkasan, 60 km away at the tip of the Oshika Peninsula, offers light hiking and lots of deer. Walk up the mountain to see monkeys. Stay at the shrine on the island and participate in the morning service (6am).

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