• Understand
• Get in
• Get around
• See
• Do
• Buy
• Eat
• Drink
• Stay safe
• Get out

Colonial-era house in Old San Juan

Old San Juan (Viejo San Juan) is the historic core of San Juan. Although this eight by ten block district is part of San Juan, it is quite geographically and culturally distinct from the rest of the city. It occupies the western half of the islet of San Juan, which it shares with Puerta de Tierra. As a tourist destination, English is relatively common, but not universally spoken.

[edit] Understand

Founded in 1509, San Juan became a walled city protected by multiple forts. It guarded an important entrance into the Spanish Main, and withstood multiple attacks by the British and Dutch (some partially successful). It was considered the Gibraltar of the West Indies. Due to its military significance, the government kept the growing population within the city walls until 1897, when a few bastions were demolished. The forts received some naval bombardment from US naval ships during the Spanish American War (1898). Much of the district is intact architecturally, including the impressive fortifications.

Many tourists are caught unawares by the sun exposure received from simply walking around the sites of this tropical city. Sunblock is available at many stores in town. Wear good walking shoes to deal with the hills and cobblestone streets. Around the perimeter of the district the tradewinds make it surprisingly comfortable, but along the interior streets it is much hotter. Brief showers are quite common, so watch your step, the cobblestones can get quite slippery.

Old San Juan is a common stop for cruise ships, yet it is definitely not a beach resort. It is a real town within a city, where people work and live. Men typically wear collared shirts and long pants, and businessmen wear suits. Women tend to wear skirts or dresses and often high heeled shoes. Although visitors are expected to dress more casually; a collared shirt, shorts with pockets and belt, and shoes are minimally appropriate for adults at most attractions.

[edit] Get in

Today the port of San Juan annually accommodates nearly 1.4 million passengers in cruise ship travel alone, making it the third busiest cruise port in the world, according to the Cruise Industry Statistical Review published in 2000. The docks are within walking distance just south of the city walls. Many of the cruise ships originate from this terminal, therefore it may be very likely that you may arrive at San Juan/Luis Muñoz Marín Airport, then take a $20 cab ride there. It is recommended to arrive into San Juan at least a day before the cruise ship embarks to have sufficient time for sightseeing in Old San Juan. There is also ferry service from across the harbor. Although one can easily drive to Old San Juan, it is not easy to drive or park within the district due to the narrow streets.

For those staying at major hotels outside of Old San Juan, day tours can usually be arranged with the concierge.

City busses can be considered; see same subject for "San Juan".

[edit] Get around

The city offers a "trolley car" bus looping the district. Use is free, and you can get on or off at any designated stop. On Saturday and Sunday afternoons, when cruise ships swell numbers of tourists, the trolley is often completely full. Try to go early. Otherwise, most distances are walkable, although due to the often hilly topography and tropical climate, one should allow at least half a day for getting around Old San Juan.

Pedestrians need to use caution. While traffic usually is slower, the streets are narrow, and sidewalks are very narrow and sometimes crowded, with occasional trip hazards.

When cruise ships are at Pier 4 (under the word "docks" on the map below), heavy bus and taxi traffic can make crossing streets nearby an adventure.

[edit] See

• San Juan National Historic Site, 501 Norzagaray Street, (787) 729-6960, [1]. Open 9AM-5PM June through November, and 9AM-6PM December through May. The park consists of multiple sites. Castillo San Cristóbal is one of the largest Spanish fortresses in the new world, and has a National Park Service visitor center off of Avenida Luis Muñoz Rivera. The center offers English and Spanish versions of an introductory film to the Historic Site, exhibits, and a bookshop. Castillo San Felipe del Morro (or el Morro) is a citadel with a commanding view of the entrance to San Juan Harbor, located at the end of Calle Norzagaray. The extensive esplanade between the citadel and the town is popular for kite flying. A single entrance fee to both forts is $5/week (children under 12 are free). Allow at least an hour to explore each fort. The park also includes most of the historic city walls, and tiny Fortín San Juan de la Cruz (or el Cañuelo) located across the harbor on Isla de Cabras.

Old San Juan Attractions

• 1 Alcadia - San Juan's City hall, built in 1602.
• 2 The Institute of Puerto Rican Culture
• 3 Casa Blanca, western end of Calle San Sebastián, (787) 721-7000, ext. 2358. Ancestral home of the Ponce de Leon family, now a museum.
• 4 La Fortaleza, western end of Calle Fortaleza, (787) 724-1454.- Oldest governor's mansion in continuous use in the New World.
• 5 San Jose Church - (1532) Second oldest church in continuous use in the New World.
• 6 San Juan Cathedral, 153 Calle Cristo. (1540) Burial site of Ponce de Leon.
• 7 San Juan Gate - Traditional entrance to San Juan.
• 8 Ballaja Barracks - Museum of Americas highlights colorful folk art.
• 9 La Casa del Libro - Museum of the art and history books through five centuries.

[edit] Do

El Morro from San Cristóbal

• Walking Tour, [2], $30.
• San Sebastian Annual Carnival, annually in January, it is one of the most popular festivals in the Caribbean, full of activities, parades, food and live music.
• Segway Tours, 787-598-9455 (email: info@segwaytourspr.com), [3]. Daily 9AM-5PM, according to demand. Explore Old San Juan on a segway. 45 minute and 2 hour tours include riding lesson, individual segway and audio guide. $35-$70.

[edit] Buy

Multiple tourist shops are located near the cruise ship docks and along Calle San Francisco.

On Calle Marina, opposite Pier 3, is the Plazoleta del Puerto, a great collection of shops specializing in local island crafts.

The district is the home to many art galleries that specialize in painting and sculptures from local artists. Also widely available are local crafts that include hand-carved, wooden religious figures, festival masks made from coconut husks or papier-mâché, hand-embroidered linens, blouses and dresses, Spanish-style jewelry of copper, diamonds, gold and silver, handbags, hammocks, baskets, ceramics, and many items made from mahogany.

After Palm Sunday in April, individuals on the street will be selling handmade "flowers" made of palm fronds. These are usually donated to them by the local Catholic parish, and are used for religious decoration.

[edit] Eat

Unlike in most U.S. States, Puerto Rican laws make it easy for restaurants to sell alcohol. Even modest lunch counters will offer beer, wine, and some mixed drinks. Tipping is customary. There are restaurants which cater to tourists, particularly tapas bars and Latin "fusion" restaurants, but look at the menu before going in to make sure prices are in a comfortable range.

• Al Dente, Calle Recinto Sur 309, Old San Juan, Phone: 787-723-7303. M-F 12PM-3PM; M-Sa 6PM-11PM; Sun 12:30PM-4PM and 6PM-10PM. The oldest continuously operated Italian restaurant in Puerto Rico.

• La Bombonera, Calle San Francisco, west of Tanca, Phone: 787-722-0658. 7:30AM-8PM. Authentic local cuisine in an unassuming landmark atmosphere unchanged for decades. Serves lunch and dinner. Fresh pastries. Superlative coffee. Inexpensive.

• La Mallorca, Calle San Francisco 300 (east of Tanca). Called "the Platonic ideal of a diner" by the New York Times, this local cafe is operated by the owners of La Bombonera and has the same time-warp atmosphere. Serves breakfast and lunch. The Mallorca pastry and the sandwiches are recommended. Superlative coffee. Sandwiches around $5, mains under $10.

• Dragonfly, Calle Fortaleza. By far one of the best places to eat if you want a cuban Asian Fusion. Great food right across from Aquaviva in Old San Juan. No shorts or sandals allowed.

• El Meson Sandwiches at the intersection of C. San Francisco and C. San Jose, has a large selection (including many vegetarian items) at very reasonable prices.

• Mojito's, Calle Recinto Sur 323. Despite the Cubanesque name and its location on the cruise ship trail, this restaurant serves up big portions of no-nonsense pork, rice and beans local fare at reasonable prices. Try the chuletas (pork chops). Mains from $10.

• Ostra Cosa, Calle del Cristo 154, Phone: 787-722-2672. Daily 12PM-10PM. Reservations recommended. The ambience here is one of the most sensual and romantic in Old San Juan.

• Parrot Club, Calle Fortaleza 363, Phone: 787-725-7370. Daily 12PM-3PM; 6PM-11PM. One of the better Latin fusion restaurants: it's expensive, but at least the food is good, the decor bright and the service friendly. Live music, either Brazilian, salsa, or Latino jazz, is offered nightly as well as during the popular Sunday brunches.

• Siglo XX, Calle O'Donell (just south of Plaza Colón). Local cuisine. Good Cuban sandwiches and beans and rice. Serves lunch and dinner. Inexpensive.

[edit] Drink

• Maria's Tropical Drinks is a must see in Old San Juan. Located at Calle de Cristo 204, you can enjoy drinks like the "Orange Frost" and "Coconut Freeze." Be sure to pair these frozen treats with their excellently modest menu serving "Un Taco y Enchillada," or if you're hungry "Dos Tacos y Enchilladas."

• The bar called Barrachina is where the Piña Colada was invented and still served, is on Calle Fortaleza near San José. A stone marker on the outside wall marks the location. Some bloggers report most "Coladas" have compromised flavor because they are held in and served from automatic machines.

There is a public ordinance which bars drinking alcoholic beverages on the street. Although this is rarely enforced, it is recommended to consume all alcoholic beverages inside the establishments. This local ordinance is relaxed during the San Sebastian Carnival, where drinking in public areas will be allowed if using containers purchased at official establishments.

[edit] Sleep

Although Old San Juan is almost entirely surrounded by water, no hotels have beach access. A few modern chain hotels are located near the cruise ship docks, some with casinos. Hotels within the city walls tend to be more colorful.

[edit] Budget

• Castro Guest House, 205 Calle de Tanca, tel. (787) 722-5436. Small guest house with rooms from $20-40 per night. Shared bathrooms, can be a little grotty. No air-con, and cheapest rooms have no windows, but balcony rooms are breezy. Between Calle de la San Francisco and Calle de la Forteleza on the Eastern side of the street. Transportation from the Airport is $19.50 plus $.50 per piece of luggage.

[edit] Mid-range

• The Gallery Inn, 204-206 Calle Norzagaray, Phone: (787) 722-1808, [4]. A unique experience, its 22 rooms are in a complex of connected eighteenth century houses. Owned and operated by an artist, works are displayed throughout the inn. Built on perhaps the highest point in the district, the roof deck has commanding views of the town and ocean. $$ UNDER CONSTRUCTION mind the roaches

[edit] Splurge

• Hotel El Convento, 100 Calle Cristo, Phone: (800) 468-2779, [5]. This small luxury hotel was a convent until the late nineteenth century. A four story courtyard connects the rooms, outlooking views vary greatly. Complimentary breakfast and afternoon wine and cheese. The deck around the rooftop plunge pool has a world-class view overlooking the town including the cathedral, governor's mansion, and harbor. Courtyard features shops, a restaurant, and a tapas bar. Most of the hotel is accessible by elevator. $$$$ $385 and up

These two resort hotels are in Puerta de Tierra, the same island as Old San Juan, and are a 5-minute cab ride away.

• Caribe Hilton San Juan, Calle Los Rosales, San Gerónimo Grounds, Phone: (787) 721-0303 or Toll Free: (800) 468-8585, [6]. The original resort hotel in Puerto Rico, the Caribe Hilton offers luxury service, a private beach, and a casino. $$$$

• Hotel Normandie, Av. Muñoz Rivera at Parque de Tercer Milenio, Phone: (787) 729-2929, or Toll Free: (877) 987-2929. First modern destination hotel in Puerto Rico, landmark Art Deco building (1939). Public beach access. $$$$

[edit] Stay safe

As a general rule, Old San Juan within, and south of, the city walls is quite safe. Tourists should be aware that a small neighborhood, La Perla, between the northern city wall and the ocean is a closed private community and not a tourist area. Visitors should avoid this area. However, it is not easy to accidentally wander into La Perla, as there are only a few access points through or over the city walls. At night it is also best to avoid the bastions of the northern city wall, overlooking La Perla. As in any other foreign city, it is not advisable to go out alone late at night, unless you have a friend or guide to escort you. The best choice late at night is to visit any of the major resort hotels in the area, which have casinos, discos, pubs with live music and restaurants which are mostly open until 3-4am, then return to your hotel by taxi.

[edit] Get out

For those staying in Old San Juan, organized bus/van day-trips to other sights in Puerto Rico can be arranged through most hotels.

Some cabs wait at the end of the El Morro esplanade footpath. There are usually many, many cabs standing at the southwest corner of Plaza Colón.

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