• Get in
• See
• Do
• Buy
• Eat
• Drink
• Sleep
• Get out

Playa del Carmen or just "Playa", as it is also commonly referred to by locals, is a resort town on the Yucatan Peninsula, Mexico. It's approximately 45 minutes south of Cancun on the Mayan Riviera, and offers a more relaxed atmosphere engineered for lounging and beach frolic.

[edit] Get in

Buses can be taken directly from Cancun airport, for around US$8. To get to the bus terminal, go right after exiting the main terminal and walk about 200 yards. Purchase a ticket (buying it in Pesos will save you a few dollars) right before exiting the terminal. Rental cars and one-way transfer services are also available.

[edit] Get around

Playa is pedestrian friendly town and you can basically walk to everything. The main thoroughfare, 5th Ave, does not allow cars except in the early morning hours for deliveries. A bike is a fun alternative to walking, there are a number of bike rental shops at the north end of 5th Ave.

[edit] By car

Car rentals are readily available at a number of locations at the north end of 5th Ave. Large companies, National, Hertz, etc. are convenient, as well as local agencies, which are generally less expensive. Scooters are a bit dangerous, but offer an alternative to cars.

[edit] By taxi

5th Ave. ('Quinta Avenida' or '5ta Av.') is a pedestrianized street and taxis are available at various intersections along its length. A taxi taken from a 'sitio' (place where taxis park) will cost a few dollars more than a taxi hailed on the street. It costs US$5 to get to Playacar, and about US$1.50 to get around the rest of Playa.

[edit] By bus

Scheduled bus service to destinations in the region (e.g. Xcaret, Xel-ha, Tulum, Cancun airport, Cancun, etc.) and beyond depart from bus station at southern end of Fifth Avenue near Playacar and Ferry terminal to Cozumel.

First class ADO bus departs hourly or so for tourist destination of Xcaret, Xel-ha and Tulum - fares are in US$4 range. The ADO Bus goes directly to the entrances of Xcaret and Xel-ha. ADO also runs direct service to Cancun airport from Playa Del Carmen for approximately US$8 (80 pesos).

Second class local Mayab buses also leave from Fifth Avenue station. Mayab buses stop more frequently enroute and drop off alongside the highway to Tulum, requiring walking from the highway to the entrances of Xcaret or Xel-ha.

An alternative to the buses is to catch a "collectivo" van. These leave/return to a separate location in Playa Del Carmen than the bus stop. Collectivos are cheap government regulated air-conditioned vans which transport people on Hwy. 307, which runs north/south along the coast. Pick-up times for these collectivos vary, roughly every 10 minutes and pick-up is simply along the freeway, but one can get you a ride to any destination between Tulum and Cancun for as little as US$6.

Organized bus tours are also available from a variety of companies, including Tours Aldebaran [1], that cross the Riviera Maya & Yucatan (Tulum, Cancun, Isla Mujeres, Mahahual, Ek Balam, Celestun, Rio Lagartos, Merida, Chichen Itza, Uxmal, Coba, Sian Ka'an, Xcaret, Xelha, etc.).

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[edit] See

• Xel-Ha [2] is an ecological theme park or natural aquarium. Here you can swim with dolphins, see sea turtles, bicycle, snorkel, cliff-dive, and scuba. If you choose to scuba you will get to pet stingrays and see larger fish. This park is quite large, so bring good shoes to walk up river, you bag your dry belongings and they will be driven back to the main area. There is a buffet restaurant and free drinks as part of the park entry-fee, as well as snorkel equipment and rafts.

• Aviario Xaman-Ha [3] is a beautiful Aviary where you will find different species, not just birds, other animal species like the butterflies, "iguanas", turtles and other small mammals. The animals and plants that live here are in their natural habitat and they live in semi-captivity. We have endemic, threatened, and endangered species.

[edit] Do

Quinta Avenida, also referred to in English as 5th Avenue, is the main tourist thoroughfare in Playa. It is a pedestrian only, cobblestone lined street which spans approximately 20 blocks. Along 5th Ave. you will find a variety of restaurants, bars, clubs, shopping opportunities and various services. In Playa, nearly everything starts from this street.

The best beach is Playa Tukan at the north end of town off of Calle 26. It is best to arrive early. Rent a canopy bed on the beach. Draw the canopy back and catch the rays, then pull it back again for an afternoon nap. Mamitas Beach Club has plenty of beds and great music playing during the day. Be aware that some women do go topless but this is not widely accepted by locals.

Nightlife is definitely happening in Playa del Carmen, but is not as wild as its neighbor to the north, Cancun. Typically, Playa's shops and restaurants close around 10pm, but nearly all of the clubs stay open through most of the night. A number of the best nightclubs are located on the beach. If you are interested in nightlife (dancing, drinks late until the evening/morning), then be sure to visit Blue Parrot, El Pirata, Santenera, and Hotel Deseo. The Blue Parrot has an intese and spectacular nightly fire show at 11pm and offers beach dancing, swings at the bar, and plenty of dancing. Santenera has a beautiful roofdeck bar. Deseo also has a roofdeck bar, but it comes with beds. Very relaxing and beautiful.

Scuba diving and snorkeling is plentiful around Playa, though the reefs are off the shore require a boat to get to. The offshore reef is part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef, the second largest coral reef system in the world. All hotels have a dive shop, though many can be found on 5th Ave. Better open-water scuba diving can generally be found in Cozumel so if this is the focus of your trip it is best to stay there. Excellent snorkeling is located at Puerto Morelos, located roughly halfway between Playa del Carmen and Cancun, and in the lagoon at Akumal, on the way to Tulum. Several dive shops in Playa del Carmen do offer cenote diving south of town. A good place to do your diving or scuba diving classes is with the Abyss Dive Center and Training Facility www.abyssdivecenter.com with bookings made in advance through their email info@abyssdivecenter.com

There are many internet cafes in Playa del Carmen, most of which also offer international phone service. Prices start at around US$1 an hour.

Cenotes are cavernous freshwater sinkholes which are found all over the Yucatan peninsula. Many of them are open to the public for swimming, diving, and exploration. Many are open, however some of them are partially underground and the caves associated with these cenotes can run for miles underground. Cenotes also vary in size with openings as little as a foot wide to as large as a small lake. The water clarity in these cenotes is often unsurpassed, often exceeding 200 feet, and makes for exceptionally good swimming. Some of the bigger cenotes are available as tourist destinations, many are locally owned, and many more still are either undiscovered or undeveloped. Entrance to the commercial cenotes is correlated to the amount of development (i.e. if there are washrooms, restaurants, showers, etc.) with fees ranging from US$1-20. for cenote snorkeling tours or cenote dive excursions look up Cenote Dive Center located in the twon of Tulum www.cenotedive.com and email them if you want to ask questions about diving in the area info@cenotedive.com

Tulum is approximately an hour south of Playa and most famous for its beautiful Mayan archaeological site which sits on a low cliff overlooking a beautiful beach and the turquoise Caribbean sea.

Cozumel, the large island off the coast of Playa is famous for snorkeling and scuba near the Great Maya Reef, the large coral system. Note that Cozumel is also a main port for Cruise ships, so can be quite busy sometimes!

Spanish language classes are available by the week at International House Maya Riviera, located on calle 14 off Quinta Avenida, and at Playa Lingua, located on calle 20 between Quinta Avenida and Avenida 10.

[edit] Buy

The touristy part of the city is laden with shops selling 'artesanias'. These basically sell the same products - shirts, bracelets, and souvenirs, but for varying prices depending on the mood of the shopkeeper and your haggling/seduction skills. Haggling is accepted in the less formal shops in Playa, as is the rest of the Yucatan, though it is worth remembering that if you are able to afford an international vacation your income is many times higher than the storekeeper's (most of whom struggle just to pay the very high rents). It is possible to buy both Mexican and Cuban cigars here, but Cuban cigar prices are not particularly cheap. Counterfeits are commonplace in Mexico, so due diligence in the selection of cigars is advisable. If you are young or have long hair, many shop keepers are likely to also offer you marijuana. Marijuana is illegal in Mexico, though its use is widespread amongst tourists.

There are three large supermarkets in Playa del Carmen: Wal-Mart (30 Ave with calle 8), Comercial Mexicana MEGA (30 Ave. with Constituyentes), Chedraui (Highway between Playa del Carmen and Playacar). There is also a Sam's Club (Highway in front of Playacar).

There are two large shopping centers on the outskirts of town: Centro Maya (on the right of the highway heading towards Tulum - opposite Playacar) and Plaza Las Americas (entrance is on the righthand side of the highway as you head to Cancún, by the large traffic circle with statue at the entrance of Playa del Carmen). Both shopping centers have multiscreen cinemas and large supermarkets (Soriana and Chedraui, respectively).

[edit] Eat

There are nearly 75 restaurants in Playa, with foods of every type and price range.

• La Pesca, Avenida 30, near Constituyentes, across from the Mega grocery store. Arguably the best seafood in Playa del Carmen. Reasonable prices, awesome food. Try the cazuela de camaron. Open every day until 9PM (but if you get there before 9, you'll still be served with a smile).

• Ah Cacao Chocolate Café, 5ta Ave. at Constituyentes, [4]. A chocolate-themed coffee shop, selling chocolate in all its forms (including pure cacao beans). Famous for the brownies. Probably serves the best lattes and espresso in Playa.

• Babes Noodles and Bar Very popular restaurant bar serving Thai-style noodles, loud music, and lots of beer. Two locations: Calle 10 between 5th and 10th, and 5th Ave. between calle 26 and 28.

• HC Monterrey, Calle 1 Sur between 15th and 20th Avenidas, well off the tourist strip of the Quinta Avenida. This butcher/restaurant is almost impossible to find without a recommendation. The arrachera nacional is so tender it almost melts in your mouth. The meat is served simply with a foil wrapped potato and half of an avocado. If you are looking for something a little different, but truly delicious, try HC. With prices around 80 pesos a person, make sure to get there early, they are open until only 7pm.

• Ileana's Il Piscadore located on the North end of Playa, a newly renamed Italian Restaurant that is a must on any visit to Playa. The Owner, a lady originally from Italy, is entertaining, charming and readily introduced us to her mother and neice. (Guess it is a family restaurant.) The Calamari is among the best I ever ate! The tiramisu is outrageously delicious and unique. The home made pasta is superb. The portions are a decent size but you do not leave thinking you over ate. Cash only. 5 Sombreros.

• La Casa del Agua is located on 5th Avenue at 2nd Street, Playa del Carmen. Great ambiance; the Calamari at lunch was excellent as was the fish when we returned on a subsequent day for dinner. A little pricier than other restaurants but well worth a try. Their indoor "waterfall" is a variation of a small pool of water cascading down rocks. The method cools nicely and is emulated in several restaurants. 5 Sombreros.

• La Cueva del Chango Contemporary Mexican cuisine in an offbeat 'jungle garden' setting. A refreshing change from the frenetic pace of the 5th Avenue restaurants. Calle 38, between 5th Ave. and the beach. The "Monkey Cave" is open for breakfast, lunch and supper and frequented by "locals" and many Americans who own villas locally.

The morning breakfast is "Tops" and the coolness of the day makes the open air setting enjoyable. Try the Grenola/Yogurt/Fruit Crepé or the outrageously delicious Chaya Crepé. (Chaya. a local favorite, is a "tree spinach" native to the Yucatan. DO NOT EAT RAW CHAYA. It contains ARSENIC) The Changos (monkeys) are temporarily not present because they were disturbed by the current condo construction boom. 5 Sombreros for breakfast.

• La Parilla "Mexican Grill" is located upstairs on the corner of Calle 8 and 5a Avenida. The Mariachi band was excellent and would play any single song that they knew for $10 USD. Similarly, one guidebook mentioned the restaurant as heving been excellent, but unable to maintain its excellence with the increase in traffic attributed to its past reputation. 2 Sombreros.

• Media Luna 5a Avenida between Calles 12th and 14th. The locals think highly of the restaurant, as do others. However, we (four) left without trying the cuisine. Located on the second floor and open to the air on the 5a Avenida side, we found the restaurant too noisy to have enjoyed the food had we ordered. We obeserved one table where diners were trying to talk over one another which caused us to initially change tables before we left. The restaurant offers vegetarian dishes, fresh fish, wonderful pastas and salads. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Sombreros not allocated

• Oasis Mexican seafood. Battered shrimp tacos, seafood soup, fried fish. Attracts mostly Mexicans and Playa locals. Prices are reasonable and the quality is consistent.

• PlayaMaya Hotel at the beach. Octopus Tacos, wonderful.

• Yaxché Cocina Maya a Mayan Cuisine restaurant located on 8th Street, between 5th and 10th Avenues, a half block from 5th Avenue. The Hotel gave us a card, good for one after dinner drink, a "Mayan Kiss". The soup (a Mayan Name) with Grouper was excellent. The shrimp plate was also tops. We returned on another occassion and had the Grouper dinner...Excellent! We also tried the creamed Chaya soup, wow. The menue for lunch and supper were the same as were the prices. One of our friends didn't care for the spicy shrimp dinner. 4 Sombreros.

Perros Calientes (hot dogs) If you wanna eat a great(great is big) hot dog, you have to walk two streets from the Fifth avenue and you will enjoy so good hot dogs.

There are also various pizza stands with prices ranging from 10 pesos to 20 pesos, most of them remain open up to 6AM when bars begin to close.

Lastly, as is the case in much of Mexico, the street food is not to be missed. Simply walk south down fifth avenue until you reach the pier and taxi stand. There are generally five or six carts there serving tacos of various types. Every seafood taco is generally outstanding, along with the carnitas, pollo, and chorizo. Also, try the stuffed poblano tacos. Tacos are typically in the 2-3 USD range. For the best and freshest tacos arrive mid-morning before the lunch rush as the carts are setting up.

[edit] Drink

Travellers will have no problem finding nice bars on the beach, alternatively if you are on a very tight budget many shops outside the main tourist area will sell drinks in bottles and cans that you can take onto the beach, though that is technically illegal, many in the policia do not stop it. Prices at the bars in Playa are consistent with any major tourist area, but a US$1 beer is not uncommon.

Liquor can be bought from any number of tourist shops, which typically sell Kahlua and a variety of tequilas at a price which is generally the same. If you are requiring a more diverse liquor supply, there are places in and about Playa that can accommodate. The most prominent is Covi Liquors, located Hwy. 307 in Playa, which offer a wide variety of liquors at prices that are generally cheaper than those shops which cater to tourists on 5th Ave.

Playa by Night

The Fifth avenue is packed with restaurants and bars but most close before midnight. There are two main streets to find clubs and bars that close after midnight: The 8th street between 5th and 10th Ave is frequently visited by locals, bars like Red offer cheap beer, 2 x 1 Drinks and great music (closes at 2am). The 12st offers more tourist places like Blue Parrot, Coco Maya and Om(http://www.omplaya.com) in the beach area and Bali Club and Santanera near the 10th Ave.(After Party).

The Dirty Martini Lounge located on 1st Avenue between 10th and 12th street gives you an alternative place to party and chill without all the hussle and bussle of the other bars. With a hotel on site and pizza served to your table for the the late night munchies, this community is a great place to spend the evenings in Playa Del Carmen www.lifejustbecamesimplier.com

[edit] Sleep

• RIU Tequila, [5]

This fabulous 664-room village-style resort is located next to a beautiful 18-hole golf course inside Playa del Carmen’s exclusive resort area. A tropical garden path opposite the Riu Yucatan hotel provides easy access to the resort’s beach club, just a short stoll away. A beach shuttle is also available. Riu Tequila offers comfortably furnished rooms and a wide variety of bars and restaurants for fine dining. This resort is a favorite among the other sister properties, as activities and entertainment are non-stop day and night.

Riu Tequila

• Rosewood Mayakoba, Ctra. Federal Cancún km. 298, Solidaridad, Quintana Roo, CP 77710 Mexico, Phone: 52-984-875-8000, [6]. Rosewood Mayakoba is situated on the Riviera Maya. This luxury resort in Mexico offers spacious suites and is located south of Cancun and north of the charming seaside village of Playa del Carmen.

Playa del Carmen has a variety of accommodations available. Unlike other beach destinations, all the "best" hotels are not on the beach. A few face the ocean but the majority are set back a block or two near 5th Ave.

*Posada Barrio Latino [7] is a quiet mid-range option with hammocks for lounging outside each room (and two very friendly pups who run to greet you). out of business

• Mosquito Blue is a gorgeously styled upper-range option with meandering pools, a reading library and old world charm to spare.

There are some inexpensive backpacker style hostels in Playa del Carmen if you are on a budget and don't mind sharing a dorm room with other travellers this is a good option.

• Hostel Playa is a nice hostel with comfy beds and big kitchen 4 blocks away from the 5th avenue.

• Urban Hostel is another great hostel with private rooms, TV common rooms, terraces and kitchen and its located just a block from 5th avenue.

You may also choose to stay at a condominium/apartment which are reasonably priced and available in the heart of the town and near the beaches.

• Natz ti Ha is a nice luxury condominium complex right next to the Shangri-la hotel.

• Pueblito Escondido, [8]. Offers luxury condos steps from the ocean. Beautiful views of the ocean from roof top infinity pool. Also home to an on-site authentic mexican restaurant, and swim up bar. Penthouses have private pools and seating areas. Right next to Shangri-la Caribe.

• villaModerno [9] is a chic condominium rental on 12th street just off of 5th avenue in a complex with a relaxing pool and waterfall.

• Moskito Vacation Rentals [10] is a professional property management company which offers many options for short and long-term vacation rentals in Playa del Carmen.

There are a few all inclusive resorts in Playa, but the rest are south of town in Playacar. The resorts are generally secluded, and prevent one from experiencing the sights, sounds, and tastes of the city, and to some extent Mexican culture as well, since you will be surrounded by Western tourists and amenities. That said, these hotels typically offer nice accommodations that are well served.

• Secrets Capri Riviera Cancun, [11]. Secrets Capri Riviera Cancun is a most striking resort combining luxury with all-inclusive hospitality. Perfectly situated within 71 lush and tropical acres, this romantic hideaway of classical Mediterranean architecture looks out upon a Caribbean Sea with seven distinct colors.

• Posada d' Margo, [12]. A very nice small hotel very near the sea and the Fifth Avenue, economic prices, clean and familiar atmosphere.

• Luna Blue Hotel & Garden, [13]. A small 18 room hotel surrounded by a lush garden in the northern, more quiet part of Playa del Carmen--Calle 26 between 5th Avenue and 10th Avenue. This hotel is three blocks from the beach and a half a block from Playa's central pedestrian mall, Fifth Avenue. It has hands-on onsite American owners.

• KINBE Rugiada, +52 (984) 87 30441. A hotel in a lush garden setting that has a hint of Africa. It offers 10 stylishly modern rooms with equally modern amenities, like a plasma TV and jet shower. The hotel is close to both Quinta Avenida and the beach, which is just 50 meters away. Visit the official website of KINBE Rugiada.

• Tropical Casablanca Hotel, (52) 984 873-0057, email: info@tropicalcasablanca.com, [14]. A hacienda style hotel just 25 meters from the beach, that has modern amenities and multilingual trip planning specialists to assist in your vacation planning. Being close to all that Playa Del Carmen has to offer, it is an excellent choice for your stay in Playa Del Carmen. Visit the official website of www.tropicalcasablanca.com.

• Hotel Coco Rio, +52 984 879 3361. Located along the quiet side of Quinta Avenida. The hotel offers rooms with air-conditioning, cable TV, refrigerator, and Wi-Fi access. Visit Hotel Coco Rio website.

• Hotel Playa del Karma, +52 (984) 8-03-02-72, email: reservas@hotelplayadelkarma.com, [15]. Offers guests the convenience afforded by its close proximity to all that the island has to offer, at the same time creating the perfect retreat for those who want to get away from it all.

• Hotel Cohiba, 52 984 873 3481. Offers 18 standard rooms, 1 rooftop suite, and 1 superior room. All accommodations have a balcony or deck, air-conditioning, private toilet and shower, and cable TV. Visit Hotel Cohiba website.

• Hotel Paraiso Azul's Casa De Gopala, +52 984 873 0054. A charming boutique hotel that offers 16 fully furnished and reasonably priced guestrooms, rooftop garden with swimming pool and Jacuzzi, and sightseeing, diving, and snorkeling trips. The hotel is located 300 yards from the beach; it's also close to Quinta Avenida. Visit the official website of Hotel Paraiso Azul's Casa De Gopala.

• The Blue Pearl Suites, +52 984 803 2379. This hotel offers 8 suites that are individually designed to suit your needs and tastes. Every suite has a fully-equipped kitchen, its own private area, air conditioning, handcrafted jacuzzis, hammocks, and sofa beds. Located a block away from the beach and a few minutes from Playa's La Quinta. Check out The Blue Pearl Suites for more information.

[edit] Get out

There are two competing companies that will ship you across to Cozumel for around US$10. The dock is on the south end of the city, just south of the plaza. Boats leave roughly every hour, from 8Am to 8PM, and the ride itself is 30 minutes.

The central bus station, right next to the taxi street, sells rides to the entirety of the Yucatan peninsula. Bus travel is relatively inexpensive, you can either travel second class, or first class, which is sometimes also called 'Express' although it is not notably any faster at all. First class buses cost around 40% more and will have toilets and TVs on them, but both classes have air conditioning. A second class ticket to Chetumal on the Belizean border costs MXN$116 Mexican Pesos (US$11) and takes around 4 1/2 hours .

• Tulum is a Pre-Columbian walled city of the Maya right on the ocean, the number one attraction when visiting the region, the site consists of a large temple, several auxiliary buildings and huts. Many tours frequent the archaeological zone so it is often busy, you can shop at several different vendor sites on your way in our out and it is recommended you use the washrooms near where the buses load. There are several other impressive Mayan vestiges within a few hours drive of Playa. Among them are Ek Balam, Coba, and Chichen Itza.

• Charter Fishing (General)

You may see many boats on the beach in Playa del Carmen waiting for a deep sea fishing charter. Ask around. Some Captains are better than others. Asking the right questions may get your catch filleted, cooked or directions to an establishment that will prepare the catch.

Numerous offshore fishing charters offered in Playa "tiendas" are in reality fronts for "time share" sales. In any case, check at your Hotel about the Captain's reputation, cooking the catch. etc. If you book through these tiendas on 5th avenue, you'll invariably end up with one of the boats parked down by the beach. So instead, just go to the beach and talk directly to the captain. You can negotiate a cheaper price as the booths aren't going to take their booking fee. On these smaller craft, the promises aren't exactly followed through on- "drinks provided" means a six pack of beer and a pop or two, so bring snacks along, and ceviche on the boat didn't exist. But most places on the beach will cook up your catch for somewhere around 7 bucks a head. If you are prone to queasiness, make sure you book ahead of time on a big boat out of Puerto Aventuras or Puerto Morelos because it can be a little rough in the smaller craft parked on the beach.

• Puerto Aventuras Capt. Rick's charters (Tel. USA 01-52-984-873-5195; Mexico 01-984-873-5195). I found the charter fishing to be great and a fair value. Puerto Aventuras is about 20 minutes from Playa del Carmen. The ride to the barrier reef was another 20 minutes allowing plenty of fishing time for our trip.

• Puerto Morelos Fishing http://www.pescamaya.com/puerto_morelos_fishing.html

I have not checked out Puerto Morelos yet but will do so in a few months. Either "Puerto" is a much shorter drive than to Cancun and less expensive. I have gone to Cancun fishing on three occassions and found the waters, where the Gulf of Mexico meets the Carribean, to be extremely rough.