• Understand
• Get in
• See
• Do
• Sleep
• Eat
• Drink
• Stay Safe

Mount Kinabalu is located in Kinabalu Park in the Malaysian state of Sabah, some 80 km east of Kota Kinabalu.

[edit] Understand

Mount Kinabalu is Borneo's tallest mountain. You can climb to the top of Low's Peak (4,095.2m above sea level). The height of the mountain is often given as 4,101m but recent satellite imaging has proven this to be incorrect.

The mountain is sacred to locals. They believe that spirits of their ancestors inhabit the top of the mountain. Previously, a chicken was sacrificed at the peak every time a climb was made but these days this ceremony only happens once a year when only seven chickens are needed to appease the spirits.

Mount Kinabalu is known to be one of the most accessible mountain in the world. No specialized mountain climbing skills are required to ascend it. The trail that most tourists use is described as a 'trek and scramble'. Locals begin climbing the mountain from the age of 3 and the oldest person to reach the peak was 80 years old. However, how much one enjoys the climb depends strongly on how fit you are and how well you acclimatise to the thin air at the higher levels.

Nevertheless, the mountain can be a dangerous place, especially during the rain or when there is mist. On average, every year one person gets into severe difficulty out of the estimated 20,000 people who attempt the climb. The higher slopes can be very slippery when it rains and dense fog reduces visibility to a few feet.

Although it is possible to climb to the top and back in less than four hours, most climbers take two days, with an overnight break at Laban Rata (3,273 m above sea level). The final attack on the peak takes place in the early hours of the second day (most begin at 2:30AM) in order to catch the sunrise at the top. By mid-morning the mist begins to roll in, obscuring the breath-taking views.

Climbing weather is best around the month of April while November and December brings rain. The temperature ranges from a comfortable 20-25 degrees Celsius at the main park to something approaching freezing near the top (depending on the weather). Bring clothing appropriate or else you will get cold and be miserable. If possible, climb during the full moon as it helps illuminate the white rope that marks out the climbing path.

[edit] Get in

The view down Mt Kinabalu

The Kinabalu Park entrance is very easy to reach from Kota Kinabalu. Buses leave every morning - just ask your hostel/hotel or around the bus station. Buses going to Ranau, Sandakan or Tawau will pass by the park entrance. It's best to leave before eight - if you're lucky you'll catch a beautiful clear view of the mountain outside the left-hand side of the bus as you approach the park. The journey should take 1-2 hours and should cost between RM10-RM15.

You can also catch buses from Sandakan (a six hour journey).

An alternative is to take a long-distance shared taxi. A ride between Kota Kinabalu and the park should cost RM15 each way. Taxis will only depart once they are full, though, which usually means they have four passengers, so you may have to wait a while. Alternatively you can pay for the missing passengers and leave immediately.

Regular (i.e. non-shared) taxis in Kota Kinabalu try to offer their services for RM150-200 or more for one-day drives to the park and back. Given the ease with which one can travel by public bus or shared taxi, however, this is an unneccessary option for budget travelers.

Self-drive is another option with car hire readily available at Kota Kinabalu airport. Driving is an easy option for those accustomed to driving on the left hand side and gives the option to stop at things en route. Car hire rates are negotiable so compare rates on offer from the various companies.

Non-Malaysians pay RM15 (adults)/RM10 (children) to enter the park. (Malaysians pay RM3 and RM1 respectively). There is another RM100 fee (plus RM7 for insurance) to climb the mountain in addition to park entry.

Alternatively, you can climb from Mesilau Nature Resort. The trail is 2 km longer than the one that begins from the park entrance but is less steep overall.

[edit] Get around

[edit] Climbing the mountain

18th Mount Kinabalu International Climbaton 2004 - Hall of Fame

The actual climb is made along a well-marked path with signposts marking each half-kilometre. All who climb the mountain must buy a climbing permit (RM100/RM40 for non-Malaysian adults/children or RM30/RM12 for Malaysian adults/children) provided that accommodation for Laban Rata has been arranged.

The park also strongly advises all to hire a guide. A guide can cost between RM70-100 per trip - the actual cost depends on the number in the group and which route is used. (It is possible to climb without a guide, but a waiver needs to be signed.) Insurance will also be required for the climb.

In addition to all this, there is also a bus that takes climbers from the park entrance to where the climbing path properly begins (RM5 each way per person). Those that choose to not take the bus face a 5km hike along a tarred road.

There are periodic rest stops about a kilometer apart up the mountain. The entire journey is 8.7km, with a stop about 6km up at Laban Rata where most climbers will overnight.

The ascent from Laban Rata upwards is difficult in places, including climbs along steep ledges, and usually starts at around 2-3AM. It can also get very gusty in places as the vegetation barrens near the top. The severely unfit will find it almost impossible.

You should bring waterproof and warm clothing including a hat and gloves, with spare, dry clothing packed in waterproof bags. If you get wet at altitude you will quickly get cold. You should also wear proper walking shoes. Bring a good headlamp with extra batteries (a headlamp is preferred over a torch since you will need your two hands for climbing some rocks near the summit), a whistle and plenty of high calorie food such as nuts and chocolate.

[edit] Costs

Here is a synopsis of the costs involved for a solo non-Malaysian adult staying in a budget mountain hut bed:

NECESSARY FEES

• Park entry fee: RM3 (Malaysian), RM15 (Non-Malaysian), RM1 (Malaysian below 18), RM10 (Non-Malaysian below 18)
• Climbing permit: RM30 (Malaysian), RM100 (Non-Malaysian), RM18 (Malaysian below 18), RM40 (Non-Malaysian below 18)
• Insurance: RM7
• Guide fee: RM70 - RM100 (Depends on trail)
• Transport to (and later, from) Timpohon Gate: RM4/way (more than 5 people)
• Accommodation on the mountain: RM188 - RM288 (Inclusive Compulsory 5x meals)

OPTIONAL FEES

• Buffet dinner at Laban Rata: RM33
• Souvenir certificate: RM10
• Walking stick: RM5. These are merely carved tree branches, sold (not rented) to you by the Park HQ. Choose a long, sturdy one; most they offer are quite flimsy and short. No matter what, a walking stick or hiking pole of some kind is highly recommended, particularly to protect your knees and ankles.
• Left-luggage: RM1

To minimize costs, you can take the following measures:

• Join up with others to share a guide.
• Pack along plenty of your own food. Baked goods are ideal because they are lightweight and loaded with needed carbohydrates.
• Don't get the souvenir certificate. The choice of certificate appears to be opt-out: on the way down from the peak you should explicitly tell the staff at the Sayat-Sayat huts (at km 7.0) that you don't want the certificate, or else they may give it to you automatically.
• Hike up to the Timpohon Gate yourself. Note that this will add an additional hour or more to your hike, and to most people this is certainly not worth it.
• Bring your own hiking pole(s).

Note that you might not be charged for the park entry fee.

[edit] See

Kinabalu Park is home to a diverse array of flora and fauna that changes in nature as your altitude increases. Near the top of the mountain the trees thin out and give way to shrubs, stones and fabulous views. Around km 4.5 there are some large pitcher plants off the trail; a well-informed guide will know where they are.

[edit] Do

• Climb the mountain: This is strongly encouraged, but be forewarned that it can be strenuous. Also, it is best to book accommodation beforehand. Indeed, the hike has become so popular of late (September 2007) that you may have to book months in advance. The park can be very full especially during clear weather periods. Note that it is not possible to stay overnight on the mountain except in the accommodation provided at Laban Rata - you must, therefore, have pre-booked accommodation. Camping is not permitted. Booking can be made through Sutera Sanctuary Kota Kinabalu Office Tel: 6-088-243629, 6-088-245742. Booking online is also possible at http://www.suterasanctuarylodges.com By regulation, booking must include guide services. However, sometimes there are cancellations. If you are unable to book mountain hut accommodation in advance, get to the Park HQ as early as possible on the day of your intended climb and inquire there. You may luck out and get a bed.
• Climb the world's highest via ferrata Once you complete the strenuous hike up to 11,000ft, you don't want to miss the opportunity to do the only via ferrata to be found in Asia, which happens to be the world's highest. It is still relatively unknown so take the opportunity to do it without a crowd of people pushing you. There are 3 different paths to take on the via ferrata, with times ranging from 4-5 hours for the longest to 2-3 for the shortest. Keep your travel plans in mind when booking the via ferrata and after-mountain activities, as this time is added to the 4-5 hours it takes to descend the mountain on the second day of hiking. More information can be found at http://www.mountaintorq.com
• Walk the trails: For the less adventurous, there are a number of trails around the park entrance. There are also guided tours, but the quality is highly dependent on the actual guide.

As you struggle up the mountain, do look out for porters laden with 14 kilogram gas cylinder tanks. Some wear slippers and most have jury-rigged harnesses (some made of rice sacks) piled high with supplies. The porters scale the 6.5km distance between Timpohon Gate and Laban Rata resthouse several times a day on supply runs and can easily outpace better-equipped climbers who are unfamiliar with the trail.

• Enjoy a short jungle walk: The majority of visitors to the Park do not climb all the way to the peak. For those with limited time or energy, there are gardens and many short walks through the jungle to enjoy in the vicinity of the entrance. A mud map is available at the Park entrance and sign posts guide you.

• Visit the Botanical Gardens: See the unique flora of Mount Kinabalu and Borneo up close

• Park Museum: A small one-room museum with interpretive signs and displays is worth a look to read about the flora and fauna of Mt Kinabalu Park as well as the other Parks in Sabah.

• Poring Hot Spring: There are several open-air pool-like bath tubs, there are also indoor Jacuzzi. Another main attraction here is the Canopy Walk over the 157.8 meter long suspension bridge connecting the Mengaris trees. Its highest point is 41 meter from the ground. You can observe the ecological system at the treetops. If you are nature music lover, here you can hear the orchestral perform by the birds,insects and perhaps jungle animals. After the hike, this is a great place to relax sore muscles; however, it may be best to stay the night here as in the evening it may be difficult to get transportation back to KK.

[edit] Sleep

All accommodations in the park can be arranged through Sutera Sanctuary Lodges Tel:(60-88) 243629 Fax:(60-88) 259552 info@suterasanctuarylodges.com). This includes:

• Kinabalu Park (entrance gate): Tel: (60-88) 889086 Fax: (60-88) 889091. Accommodation ranges from hostels to individual rooms (for up to two people) to entire cabins and lodges (for larger groups). All have access to simple kitchen facilities. RM70 for hostels, RM92-RM184 for suites, RM230-RM1,150 for entire lodges.

• Laban Rata and environs: Tel:(60-88) 871454 Fax:(60-88) 871239. Three-quarters up the mountain at about 3300m above sea level. The main Laban Rata Resthouse as well as unheated huts. The Laban Rata Resthouse fills up very quickly so advance reservations (3-4 months ahead)are strongly encouraged. The main dining area is also at the Resthouse. All huts are close to the main resthouse, but even a 50m trek uphill in bad weather can seem an eternity. RM46 for huts, RM69 for the Resthouse dorm, RM180 and RM300 for the two individual rooms (that's right, there are only two rooms, the rest are dorms).

• Mesilau Nature Resort: Tel: (60-88) 871733 Fax: (60-88) 872977. The beginning of the alternative route to the mountain. One hostel and numerous lodges (with 2-3 bedrooms each). RM30 for dorms, RM320-400 for lodges.

Alternatively, outside the park, just two minutes ride from the gate, you can stay at Kinabalu Rose Cabin. You'll be able to get a great view of Mount Kinabalu from the rooms. Room rates start from RM70. (Tel: 088-888233)

The nearest towns to the Park are Kundasang (6 km) and Ranau which have several hotel options easily located along the main road:

• Kinabalu Pine Resort: situated on the main road between the Park and Ranau is a great place to take your photos of the mountain. Bookings online at[1] with their most expensive room RM130 (July 2007). Meals, including beer, are available at the restaurant. Credit cards are accepted.

• D-Villa Rina Ria Lodge: just 500 metres from the park main entrance has dorm accommodation for RM 20 a night. Tel: (60-88) 889282.

[edit] Eat

There are cafeterias and restaurants both at the Park entrance gate and at Laban Rata. The food prices at Laban Rata are relatively higher compared to prices at nearby towns. This is because raw materials need to be carried up to Laban Rata by porters. For example, a buffet dinner of 6 different dishes costs RM33; a can of beer is a whopping RM20; tea is RM6. The quality of the food is good, however.

However, if you don't feel the need to stuff your face, you can bargain with the staff and get one plate of rice/curry chicken for RM 15.

To save money, you can stock up on bread, baked goods, chocolate and other lightweight but energy-giving foods in KK before you depart. It is good to bring your own supply of instant noodles and tea sachets as well as snacks, though be warned that in the cafeteria they will charge you RM1 for hot water! Some huts have electric kettles where you can boil your own water for free.

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[edit] Drink

Water, that is. During the hike to the top it's important to stay well hydrated. Fortunately, at each pondok (rest pavilion) on the trail, there's large tank of free drinking water constantly being fed by pipes leading down from clean water sources high up on the mountain. The tanks are marked "Untreated Water", but the water is safe to drink. Thus, it's unnecessary to bring lots of heavy bottles of water along; one container will suffice.

[edit] Stay Safe

• Be aware of how dangerous the mountain can be during bad weather. Stay close to the guide ropes and to your guide. If you lose sight of the guide ropes, blow a whistle or shout. Note that because of the thin air and the acoustics of the mountain, your shouts will not carry as far as you might expect and may seem to come from many directions. It's best to have a climbing partner, especially in large groups which can string out as stragglers get left behind.

• The thin air causes problems for some. It's best to climb slowly and surely instead of rushing up and finding yourself exhausted. The mountain is high enough to cause altitude sickness, so familiarize yourself with the symptoms and keep an eye out for them.

• For the final climb, dress appropriately. Temperature can be freezing at times. It's better to have several thin layers that you can peel off as it gets warmer. A hat is vital to keep warm. Gloves are needed to pull yourself up the guide ropes in some places.

• Bring a torch (flashlight). Make sure it does not fall out of your unzipped pocket as you climb along. Better still, use a headlamp so that your hands can be free.

• Coming down can be more painful than climbing up because of sore muscles and tired legs. Some of the steps are steep. Take it slowly and don't jam the toes into the front of the shoes. Get those open toe sandals. Zig-zag for gradual gradients instead of blindly walking down the steepest route. The experienced guides will literally skip and sprint down the mountain, but only those who are second-cousins to billy goats should try this.

• Bringing along muscular ache relief cream and knee/ankle supports may be helpful.

• Note that your legs may ache for a few days after the hike. Don't plan any rigorous activities afterwards for the following few days, unless you know you can handle it.