• Understand
• Get around
• See
• Buy
• Eat
• Contact
• Get out

Giant ceramic tanuki at Mashiko

[edit] Understand

Mashiko is famous for precisely one thing: its pottery, known as Mashiko yaki (益子焼). Simple and rustic in style. The main glazes are a clear wood ash glaze, a white rice husk ash glaze, black and kaki (persimmon), sometimes decorated with enamel red, yellow and green. These are worlds apart from the courtly ceramics of Kyoto but yet very Japanese. Pottery has been made since Jomon times (over 10,000 years ago) in Mashiko, but modern Mashiko yaki dates only to 1853. The style was popularized by the potter Shoji Hamada. He was designated as NINGEN KOKUHO (Living National Treasure) in 1955. Because of Hamada, Mashiko yaki has been viewed as a good example of Mingei (Folkcraft) pottery.

[edit] Get in

Any way you look at it, Mashiko is quite a hike from Tokyo.

[edit] By train

Moka Railway steam locomotive

An alternative approach not much different in time or price is to take the JR Jōban line from Ueno to Toride, then change to the private Kantetsu-Jōsō line to Shimodate.

Note that the Mōka Railway (真岡鉄道) runs steam locomotives (coded as "SL" on schedules) once a day in each direction on Saturdays. As of February 2005, departure from Shimodate is at 10:36 and the return from Mashiko at 15:03. The SL fare is about double the regular fare of ¥740 between the two stations. The railway station at Mōka is shaped like a giant steam locomotive and is covered by a webcam [2].

[edit] By bus

Another alternative is to take the train to Utsunomiya and continue from there by Toya bus directly to Mashiko. The bus stops are in front of the main entrance to the train station. Look for bus station number 14 to Mashiko. Buses leave approximately hourly, take one hour and cost ¥1100.

[edit] Get around

Mashiko is small enough to get around on foot, but sufficiently stretched out to make getting around a bit of hike, especially as the train station is a little inconveniently located at the far western end of the main street. You can rent bicycles at the train station for a cost of ¥800 per day, or ¥400 for two hours, plus ¥100 for each additional hour.

Maps and English brochures are available from the tourist information office to your right as you exit the platform at Mashiko station.

[edit] See

The town consists of little but pottery workshops, kilns and retail shops. The twice-yearly weeklong Pottery Markets (陶器市 Tōki-ichi) [3], held in April-May and November, are the best time to visit. All workshops in town set up stalls on the roadside and all stores large and small hold sales.

• Mashiko Sankōhan (益子参考館). Tel. 0285-72-5300, Sankohan-mae bus stop. Shoji Hamada's workshop and home turned museum, showcasing about 30 of his works as well as his private collection. Near Hamada's thatched-roof home is a huge climbing kiln. Admission ¥800, open 9:30 am to 4:00 pm daily except Monday; closed in February.

• Tōgei Messe Mashiko (陶芸メッセ益子). Tel. 0285-72-7555. A museum of ceramic arts, displaying works by Shoji Hamada and other potters, not only from Mashiko but around Japan. Admission ¥600, open from 9:30 am to 4:00 pm daily except Wednesday.

• Zen no Rōka (禅の廊下). Tel. 0285-72-9866. An indoor and outdoor museum of statues and artpieces, displaying works by Nandor Wagner a Hungarian scupltor who lived for three decades in Mashiko. There are a spring and an autumn exhibition check for details at [4].

[edit] Buy

The only thing to buy in Mashiko is, of course, the pottery. The main street from the station to the center of town is filled with shops and boutiques offering all kinds and all price levels of ceramics.

• Mashikoyaki Kyōhan Center (益子焼共販センター). Tel. 0285-72-4444. A cooperative sales center that sells works by most kilns in town at reasonable prices. Open daily from 8:30 AM to 5:30 PM.
• Ikiru Kiln (生きる窯), 2858-2-2 Nanai, tel. +81-285-70-1263, email: lee@mashiko.org, [5]. Pottery and woodblock print workshop by transplants from Minnesota, in the "MingeiSota" tradition. Please email or phone before your visit.
• Harvey Young Pottery (ハービー　ヤング　陶房), 3650-2 Oosawa, tel.0285-72-6484 (from outside Japan: +81-285-726484), [6]e-mail: h_young@beige.plala.or.jp A small handmade pottery workshop operated since 1984 by an American who first went to Mashiko in 1969 to study pottery making. Tableware, Kitchenware, Flower Arrangement ware. Visitors are welcome, by appointment.

[edit] Eat

"Mashiko no Sato" is a traditional cake made in Mashiko city. It taste like sweet potato, and is very popular as souvenirs. The price is about ¥120 a piece. It is sold in most large souvenir shops in Tochigi.

[edit] Sleep

Many people make Mashiko a daytrip from Tokyo or go onto Nikko for the night, but there are also several Ryokan, Minshuku and Onsen to stay at in Mashiko.

[edit] Budget

• Tao Art Club, Potters Inn (益子陶芸倶楽部 Mashiko Tōgei Kurabu), tel. 0285-72-3866, fax 0285-72-4178,　[7]. A traditional Minshuku style inn and also a pottery studio. Lodging only is ¥3500 a night. Studio use is extra. There are several kilns, including a wood fired noborigama. If you book during the week or "off peak" you might be able to stay in the Minka farmhouse, which has "Western" style toilets. If the Minka is full, you get placed in modern rooms. Large groups can be accommodated. It is located in a convenient spot. Bicycles are availabe Fax first, Furuki-san can read English and then voice call to confirm.

[edit] Mid-range

• Minshuku Higeta Phone: 0285-72-2559
• Minshuku Furusato Phone: 0285-72-3156
• Minshuku Yamaji Phone: 0285-72-2525
• Minshuku Yamabiko Phone: 0285-72-1829

[edit] Splurge

• Okadaya Ryokan　Phone: 0285-72-2016
• Hasegawa ryokan Phone: 0285-72-2210
• Shiraume-so Phone: 0285-72-6762
• Tozan-so Phone: 0285-72-2063
• Ohkawado Kozen Spa Phone: 0285-72-4546
• Business Hotel Toyoda Phone: 0285-68-4500

The following are all onsen (hot spring) hotels.

• Kur Mashiko 21 (クア益子２１) Phone: 0285-72-8100
• Hotel Sunshine Mashiko-kan (ホテルサンシャイン益子舘) Phone: 0285-72-7777
• New Mashiko Onsen Hotel (ニュー益子温泉ホテル) Phone: 0285-72-7011 [8]

[edit] Contact

Mashiko's tourism office is located at the train station. Open daily 8:00 am to 8:00 pm., tel. 0285-72-8846 (or 0284-72-2111 on weekends and holidays). With advance notice, they can arrange pottery classes for you.

[edit] Get out

• The shrines and parks of Nikko are within easy striking distance of Mashiko.

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