• Get around
• See
• Do
• Buy
• Eat
• Drink
• Get out
• Stay safe
• Other

Main street, Livingstone

Livingstone (also known as Maramba), the capital of Zambia before it was moved to Lusaka, is in the Southern Province of Zambia.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Livingstone has its own small airport (Template:ICAO), and flights arrive daily.

• British Airways (Conair), Nationwide and South African Airways fly between Livingstone and Johannesburg.
• Air Zimbabwe and South African Airways operate between Johannesburg and Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe) (airport code VFA), Livingstone's "sister city," located on the Zimbabwe side of the border.
• Zambian Airways offers flights between Livingstone and Lusaka. Via Lusaka you can fly to other destinations within Zambia.
• The airport in Livingstone is currently being extended and the hope is to allow direct flights from Europe.

[edit] By bus

Relatively comfortable luxury buses travel between Lusaka and Livingstone, for around Zambian Kwachas 60.000 (appr. US$ 13,-) tickets may be purchased one day in advance at the bus terminal in Lusaka. Two to three buscompanies operates this route, about 6 departures per day. Unconfortable thing with these buses are that most of them have five seat on row, so space per passenger is not too much. These buses transport you in 6 hours to downtown Livingstone (total distance 470 km), near a taxi rank. It is also possible to catch a minibus from Lusaka, for about the same price. Recommended bus operator is "Mashiandu (not sure for correct spelling) family Bus". they have seat number system. It means there is no need to fight for your seat when boarding.

[edit] By car

If you are aching to rent a car and drive yourself around Zambia, this might be the trip for you. The roads between Livingstone and Lusaka are among the country's best, and the trip involves only one right turn.

For the international driver, roads lead into Livingstone from Victoria Falls (Zimbabwe). You can buy a temp. import permit at your port of entry, for 1 month, 3 months or longer. Also a Zambian third party insurance is mandatory, next to reflective stickers or reflectors at the front of your vehicle (white) and at the back (red). Dimensions must be 5 x 5 cm, however rectangular is permitted as well.

[edit] Get around

The city of Livingstone -- where the bulk of the accommodation, restaurants, nightclubs, etc. are located -- is relatively small. Most likely, you will be comfortable walking around town. However, if you prefer not to, taxis prowl constantly. Official taxis are ones which are blue and have a red number plate. If you flag taxi down on your way to town centre, driver may ask whether you are bookign the taxi or not. If you are booking, you should pay full fare and driver is taking you to your doorstep. If you don't book, it means that you pay only for one seat and driver can pick other passengers who are going to same direction.

The city sits about 6 miles from The Falls, making it just long enough to not want to walk. However, taxis and minibuses are happy to take you there (or back) for about $6 but be prepared to haggle to get the right price of course, journeys to 5* hotels tend to cost substantially more than the average journey but are still relatively inexpensive. If hotel or guesthouse is arranging taxi for you to the falls, normally price is higher than what you can get when negotiating with driveer directly. Middle man needs money too!

[edit] See

Victoria Falls, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is one of the most amazing sights in the world. Twice as tall as Niagara Falls, and several times longer, Victoria Falls affords visitors a once-in-a-lifetime sightseeing experience.

Thanks to a well-designed park, visitors can touch the waters of the Zambezi just meters before it plunges over the falls; cross the falls on narrow bridge that provides spectacular views; and shoot rolls and rolls of film, without feeling their photos are redundant.

[edit] Do

Victoria Falls is becoming an adventurer's paradise. In recent years, many "extreme sports" have appeared, including:

• White Water Rafting -- boasting several Class V rapids, the roiling waters south of the Falls provide 18 of the world's best rapids literally starting in the gorge of Victoria falls in the Boiling Pot, right under Victoria Falls Bridge. Several outfitters (Bundu is a popular choice; it's offices are located in Livingstone (Zambia) and Safari Par Exellence) have popped up in the past few years to take the courageous down the river. The rafting, itself, can be physically exhausting (and watch out for (albiet small) crocodoiles in the still water), but the climb out of the canyon at the end of the trip is the real beast -- it's long, steep, and difficult. The cost is well worth it (about $100 for the day) and includes lunch, dinner, and beer.
• If rafting doesn't sound like fun, or you want to do something different, you can body board the first few rapids (it is advisable that you be able to swim fairly well or you won't get the most out of it)
• Bungi Jumping from the bridge spanning Zambia and Zimbabwe is very popular. The location affords a spectacular view of the Falls -- behind you, on the Zam side -- and the Victoria Hotel -- in front of you, on the Zim side. The cost is about $100 per jump.
• Livingstone Island a trip to Livingstone Island is unmissable. An island situated in the Zambezi river, 2 or 3 feet from the top of the Victoria Falls on the Zambian side. Trips leave from the Royal Livingstone Hotel and cost about $45 including breakfast. You will have the opportunity to stand in shallow water, 2 inches (literally) from where the water gushes over the edge of the falls, and swim in Devil's Pool, a reasonable current-free pool a couple of feet from the top of the falls, close enough to lean over the edge. This makes fantastic photo opportunities with a permanent rainbow from the mist of the falls behind you. This MAY only be available during UK Summer months due to water levels. Book with a reputable company as this is obviously a dangerous activity and unregistered access to the island is illegal (ask at your hotel or hostel).
• The Zambezi Swing is a relatively new outfit, featured on the very first episode of The Amazing Race in 2001. For about $100, this South African group lets you abseil, rap jump, do a zip line, and -- the highlight -- a gorge swing. While Bungi Jumping is over in a few minutes, these guys let you play all day.
• Del-Air offers helicopter pleasure flights over the Falls, for about $100 per person. This is a spectacular way to see the Falls. Just as important, however, it's a neat way to get to see the Zambezi River -- look for alligators attacking prey! -- and to see exactly how the River has moved over time. It's truly awesome to see how nature has carved away at the landscape.
• Another company offers microglider rides over the Falls. This provides a much closer view of the Falls than the helicopter ride, but it does not give you as broad of a view. The microgliders do not fly on windy days.
• Another must is the elephant back safari run by Elephant Trails, a truly spiritual experience.
• It's possible to walk with several young lions in a park in Zimbabwe. It costs around $100 and is well worth the expense. Inquire at your hostel or hotel.
• Tandem skydiving is also now available.
• Several companies provide a sunset booze cruise on the Zambezi, above the Falls. For $25, you get a two-hour cruise, all the drinks you can throw back, a little game-viewing, and a braai (BBQ) afterwards. The trip can be really crazy or really mellow, depending on who's scheduled on your trip.
• The Livingstone Museum costs about 15 cents and is worth breezing through. Most notable (read: curious) among the information is the fact that Zambians did not have access to a wheel until Europeans brought one in the 19th Century.
• Finally, there are several game parks nearby, many of which are well-worth the visit. Livingstone boasts the only white rhino in Zambia. There was a breeding pair in Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park but poachers killed the female and injured the male on June 6, 2007. The male is currently under heavy guard.

[edit] Buy

Livingstone provides an inexhaustible supply of curio vendors, women selling fabrics, boys selling cool drinks, girls selling jewelry, and so on. You could easily spend all your money here. Be aware, though, that since this is a popular stop for tourists unfamiliar with bargaining, prices might be somewhat higher here than in other places. A savvy bargainer, however, can still strike gold although indistinguishable souvenirs are much cheaper outside Livingstone (on the roads to Lusaka for example)

If you Bungee Jump, Raft the Zambezi, or do any of the other "extreme activities," you've got to buy the t-shirt. It is a badge of honor in Africa, and a great way to tell others how tough you are. You can also buy photos and often videos of the extreme activities...try to get a look at the photos/video before buying (this is certainly possible with the bungi). Whilst the bungi videos are sometimes not videoshop quality you WILL be able to show your friends how great you are - to accompanying music.

[edit] Eat

Considering Livingstone is such a tourist destination, you can be certain that Western-style meals are easy to find -- everything from pizza, to burgers, even burritos! However, many of these restaurants seem to open and close rapidly. One "old horse" that has been around for a while is located about one-quarter of the way between Livingstone and the Falls, on the right-hand side; they double as a plant nursery. They are not open for dinner. Others include:

• Hippo's Restaurant, near Fawlty Towers Backpackers, is a popular joint that attracts a young crowd. It features al fresco dining that receives mixed reviews.
• Grubby's Grotto, just outside the town centre, offers a bad name but great food. It caters to overland trucks -- when we arrived on foot, we couldn't eat there. Don't know what the proper procedure is, exactly.
• The Funky Munky In the same complex as Fawtly Towers guesthouse, this is an excellent restaurant with some very nice pizzas.
• The Livingtone Safari Lodge offers you a complete different setting and average food. They support the orphans of Livingstone by operating their lodge. Low standard of accommodation.
• Pub and Grill in Town opposite the main banks, an American style restaurant with good food in plentiful servings
• Chanters Lodge just outside the centre of town, the best pepper steak in town. Chanters can also cater too those wishing to taste an authentic Zambia meal.
• Sunrise in Kutaway - this street is better known as "second class" from times when African and Asian people were allowed to trade only on that area, not on the main road! - is run by local people and offers the most "Zambian" dining experience in fairly clean and cosy place between the buildings. entry can be easily missed, but it is in middle of Kutaway on left hand side when coming from town direction. Even many taxidrivers don't know this place.

If you're interested in a more authentic African meal, there are local restaurants willing to serve you; look around.

[edit] Drink

Every hostel, hotel, and resort in Livingstone features its own bar. If you want to get a cold one, you won't have to look far. There are also a number of nightclubs downtown, where tourists and locals alike dance to local and Western music. Manu localmusic is from Congo, those artists perform in Congo (DRC) local languages, so manytimes even local Zambians don't know meaning of the words, but rythm, twisting and shaking is the issue here.

Stepright which was reputedly full of "mafias" although "they don't pick trouble with tourists", as well as a open-air club adjacent (across the road) and the bar and grill has a disco later on again next door in the centre of town were all very good. There is also a casino a short taxi-ride away where the drinks were slightly more expensive.

"Hippos" - the bar attached to fawlty towers is the most common spot where tourists hang out, but many locals socialise there also.

'Chez nTemba' - typical Zambian nightclub. Open daily. One of the few places you are required to pay into and the drink is slightly more expensive.

"Rhapsody" in new shoppingcentre, Fallspark (locally known better as "spar" according to the supermarket which is there)is the must upperclass bar/restaurant.

[edit] Sleep

There are a number of places to sleep in Livingstone. Budget here means under $20/night, mid-range between $20 and $200/night and splurge over $200/night.

[edit] Budget

• Fawlty Towers is a "classy" hostel, with a terrific pool, in downtown Livingstone, it is possible to camp by the pool if there are no rooms (or you're really short on cash) and it offers pancakes (crepes) every day at 3pm, as well as a bar and comfy lounge area with a TV, the staff are very helpful and will make phone calls for you to help book trips and activities
• Jolly Boys provides dorm beds for $6/night and features a large pool and a roofed viewing platform which lets you see the steam from the Falls on a good day. There are also hammocks and mango trees if you feel like just lazing around. Look for the man who bills himself as "The Grumpiest Overlander in the World."
• Gecko's is also a good, no-frills place to sleep ($6/night).

[edit] Mid-Range

• Tree-tops features treehouses on stilts, overlooking the Zambezi.
• Chanters Lodge super quiet lodge just off Obote Avenue.

[edit] Splurge

• The Zambezi Sun, located between Livingstone and the Falls, offers a number of restaurants and accommodation types. You may recognize it as the location of a recent World's Strongman Competition.
• The River Club on the Zambezi River is 18 km upstream of the Falls on the River.
• Stanley Safari Lodge [1]overlooking the Zambesi, the Falls and the Elephant Drinking Place. Very luxurious.

[edit] Get out

You can catch a bus in Livingstone in Lusaka airport or alternatively, You can catch a bus in Livingstone that will take you through the desolate Southern Province to the Zambia-Namibia border. (If the bus breaks down, be prepared to wait; bring water and a snack. However, for the independent traveler, this is the fastest, cheapest, most memorable way to Namibia.) The bus will drop you in Sesheke, a small, dusty village on the Zambian side of the Zambezi River.

After crossing the Zambezi River by ferry or dugout canoe (!), you'll be in Katimi Mulilo, on the eastern tip of the Caprivi Strip. The ferry is taken out of service due to the new bridge which opened early 2004.

[edit] Stay safe

Generally, Livingstone is a fairly safe town. They want to continue to attract foreign currency, so they are careful to make travelers feel safe. However, be careful about walking downtown at night, especially if you've been drinking. There are very few streetlights, and many of the locals are very poor. Try not to annoy the taxi-drivers, particularly late at night when some have been drinking. It is not generally recommended for tourists to walk the 5 miles from Livingstone to Victoria Falls due to a number of recent reports of crime. Certain time of year elephants are dangerous on way to the falls. They get irritated easily if you go too close. This is one reason not to walk there.

Inceasing numbers of Zimbabweans are leaving their country and Zambia, especially Livingstone on the border, receive their share. Manytimes those Zimbabweans are even poorer and more desperate than Zambians. There are some attacs reported reasently, Zambias accuse Zimbabweans being behind them, but we don't really know...

Rafting can be dangerous anywhere in the world. Make sure you raft with a 'tried and tested' outfitter and the guides will be excellent, however the lack of beginners class rapids means that if you do raft, you are thrown quite literally into the deep end of one of the worlds most demanding rivers and deaths do occur. Make sure your life jacket is securly fastened, almost to uncomfortable levels before each rapid and if you are sucked under the water, don't panic, you will be popped up by the current in a few seconds, it is very frightning and disorientating though. Make sure you have adequate insurance that covers grade 5 rapids, most don't.

[edit] Other

It is important not to rely on your bank card to withdraw money from ATMs, especially if you do not have a VISA card. There are ATMs in the town centre and in the shopping centre on the way to the falls.

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