South America > Peru > Central Coast (Peru) > Lima
Lima
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Lima is the capital of Peru and its largest city. Founded in 1535 by the Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro, the modern city is a curious mix of the modern mega city with some 'islands of modernity', large but orderly slum areas and colonial architecture in the city center. Lima was, with Mexico City, the seat of the Spanish rule during 300 years, and as such it has wonderful churches, cloisters and monasteries that are worth a visit. Lima is also the best place to try the wonderful Peruvian cuisine, which has a huge variety of ingredients from coast, mountain and Amazon regions. The cold sea current in front of Peru's large coast makes the sea very rich in fish and seafood, which have a great taste due to the special plankton they eat. Fish and seafood restaurants are therefore the best, and not expensive. Lima has also a great subtropical climate, it is never too warm or too cold. People in Lima do not use raincoats or umbrellas, since rains are rare. In fact, Lima is built upon a valley surrounded by an extremely arid desert.
[edit] UnderstandMetropolitan Lima is an extended city of almost 8 million people. Most of the people have migrated from the Andes mountains to find work in Lima, without success. For that reason there is widespread poverty in the city center and in the peripheral areas. If you fly into Lima, the first thing you see is this type of poor neighbourhoods between the airport and Lima's historic centre. Lima's pre-hispanic and colonial architecture are interesting and the city has several museums that tell the story of a country with a long history that produced a large number of coastal and Andean civilizations (such as the Moche, Chavin, and the Incas) and many local cultures. There are several archeological sites both within and around the city (locally known as "huaca"). The largest archeological complex is located in Pachacamac, about 10 km south of Lima. [edit] Get In[edit] By planeJorge Chavez International Airport (Template:IATA|Template:ICAO) (also called Jorge Chavez Airport Lima-Callao; flight infos T:+51 (1) 511-6055) [1] is in the harbour city Callao (part of metropolitan Lima). Lima is well connected with most cities in South America. There are regular flights to Miami, Newark, Atlanta and Houston in the US. There are daily flights from Amsterdam, Madrid, and Toronto as well. These airlines fly to Lima (April 2006):
Lima is the hub for most domestic flights and is served by: Aerocondor, LAN Peru, LC Burse, TACA Peru, and Star Peru. The airport is a 20-30 minutes drive from San Isidro or Miraflores. Be wary of the taxi drivers at the airport, they will charge hugely inflated fees. If you need transportation at the airport hire it inside the reception area, and do not use the "informal" taxis outside of it. The Best Western in the Miraflores section offers free airport pickup. The Urbanito Airport Shuttle Service ( +51 1 814 6932 ) offers door-to-door service to and from the Airport and hotels. The desk for the service is located in the international terminal. Green Taxi is also a recommended taxi service, with vehicles of various sizes. They have a station in the Lima airport. [edit] By busUnlike many other cities in Peru, Lima doesn't have a big bus terminal. Most companies are in La Victoria, not Lima's nicest neighbourhood. More expensive express buses tend to run from terminals by the inner ringroad. Regular buses run up and down the Panamerican Highway and inland: South: Pisco, Ica, Nazca, Arequipa & Tacna North: Huaraz, Chimbote, Trujillo, Chiclayo & Piura East: Iquitos, Madre de Dios, Puno [edit] Get AroundIn the city center you can easily walk around from one place to another. This also allows you to see both the hectic and tranquil parts of the city away from the main tourist attractions. [edit] TaxiIf going further, a taxi ride between adjacent neighbourhoods costs about $2, or 6 soles if you speak Spanish well enough, whereas a longer ride may cost from $3 to $5. A reasonable price for a taxi service between the airport and Miraflores is about $10 to $15. Be sure to negotiate the fare prior to getting into the taxi; be also very discerning about which taxi you choose. There is a lot of paranoia in Lima, and the same goes for taxis. As a foreigner, don't EVER get into shared taxis.
[edit] Public transportThere are several types of public transport: big buses, medium-sized micros and combis, small vans packed with up to 20 people. Usually you can stop them at any point, though it's easier at the end of a block or at traffic lights. If a bus or combi is not full enough the driver will go slower in the hope more people hop in, so take a cab if you're in a hurry. In a combi you usually pay from 0.50 to 1.20 soles. [edit] See Downtown:
Miraflores:
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[edit] Do
[edit] BuyVisit "Polvos Azules" near central Lima to buy cheap clothes, cd's and dvd's, shoes, backpack's, spirits or perfumes. Most things you buy here are fake, but nevertheless of good quality. There are several cheap markets like "Polvos Azules" in, or near, central Lima. [edit] Drink[edit] Miraflores
[edit] BarrancoBarranco is a neighborhood south of Miraflores with many clubs and cafes, popular among college students in Lima. It's most probably the party heart of town, where you can find most Peñas, music clubs that offer folkloric music shows, in particular Afro Peruvian and Criollo gigs. On the weekends, Barranco has "A Taste of Barranco" food festival. Outdoor tables are filled with every dish they serve, the price is very reasonable too. Local musicians play and it's a very popular place to be. For live music, Barranco is also good. Some of the best clubs for rock music include 6 places within a few blocks:
[edit] City centerAround Plaza de Armas you can find some nice bars. [edit] Drinks
[edit] Eat Gastronomy has always been, since the days of the Spanish viceroyalty, an essential aspect of life in Lima. During the last few years, however, the city's dining reputation has experienced a huge leap in the eyes of the world due to the fact that experts gathered in the Fourth International Summit of Gastronomy Madrid Fusión 2006 formally declared Lima to be the "Gastronomical Capital of Latin America". The offerings in Lima are nowadays most varied and cover a wide range of types and cuisines, both regional and international. Notwithstanding the wide range of choice in Lima's many restaurants, ceviche is surely number one on the list of dishes you must get to know, not only because it happens to be the "peruvian national dish", but because of its unparalelled delicious taste. With the increasing interest in the peruvian cuisine, ceviche is quickly making its way onto tables all over the world. But if you want to enjoy the real thing, don't miss it during your stay here in ceviche's Meca. There is at least one cevichería in every neighbourhood, so it won't be hard to find one. Moreover, most criollo restaurants include ceviche on their menus; indeed, many restaurants do, even the more upscale nouveau-cuisine. A second must goes to Asian cuisine, both Chinese and Japanese, which, predictably, has a strong Peruvian influence. Chifas -that is, Chinese restaurants-, which can be counted by the hundreds if not thousands, are usually down-to-earth neighbourhood eateries, offering a fare rich in seafood and chicken. Japanese restaurants, on the contrary, are less widespread, and more upscale and expensive. Their forte is, of course, a year-round supply of the freshest and most variegated seafood. Be careful: Peruvian food is spicy and heavy. Try it with method and ask if any dish is "picante" (spicy), and if you are not fond of that, avoid it since it may be really picante. A full meal may be really heavy and cause problems even if it's perfectly nice and well prepared with fresh ingredients. Israeli and Arab tourists longing for a delicious falafel or shwarma sandwich will be pleased to learn there is an excellent cafe along Parque Kennedy that serves these type of middle eastern foods at reasonable prices.
Top 5 Gourmet Restaurants in Lima:'
Costanera 700 One of the best restaurants in Lima whose chef was once the personal chef to Fujimori (former Peruvian President). Close to the beach and excellent, execellent food; not too expensive either. Pass on the Pulpo a la oliva ( unless you like your squid in black olive sauce ) Try the famous Tiradito Costanera (raw fish slides in lemon juice) Chita a la Pimienta (fish on pepper). EDO sushi bar best sushi in the world located in miraflores san borja and sanisidro. Other restaurants you should not miss,
This list could go on forever; you could probably spend all your time eating in fine restaurants in Lima and never get tired. [edit] BuyFor some reason it is very hard to change money other than Euros and US-Dollars in Lima. You can't even change the currency from neighbouring countries in normal money exchanges and banks. You might find more flexible exchange offices at airports, but they often charge ridiculous service fees and exchange-rates. Changing money in Miraflores can be done safely with cambistas on the street, but you must follow a few simple rules to avoid being cheated. First, make sure that the cambista is wearing the vest-uniform indicating that he or she is an authorized, licensed cambista. Always ask for the exchange rate (tipo de cambio). It is worth it to compare with several cambistas, especially if you are changing a significant amount of money. Finally, make sure that the bills the cambista gives you have his or her seal stamped on them - that way, if by chance one of them turns out to be counterfeit you can come back and complain. I have never gotten counterfeit notes from a cambista, but asking for the seal probably helps maintain the incentive for honesty. There are a number of markets for buying Peruvian artesania, souvenirs, jewelry, and handicrafts along Av. Petit Thouars in Miraflores. To get there is a short walk from Parque Kennedy. The biggest - and arguably best - of these is Mercado Indio, a huge expanse of small tiendas selling everything Peruvian - sweaters, blankets, silver, whatever you want! Be careful in some of the stores on Petit Thouars closer to central Miraflores - I have been handed counterfeit bills as change. But in general, competition works its magic and the prices on Petit Thouars are very good, as long as you aren't clueless. For even better prices, if you are feeling more adventurous you can try the markets along Av. La Marina in San Miguel on the way to the airport. An idea might be to stop there for last-minute shopping before leaving the country. These goods are similar to those of Av. Petit Thouars, but as the neighborhood is considerably less upscale and fewer tourists come here, the prices are a little lower. While Polvos Azules in the center of Lima might be the absolute best for prices on many items, you can save time by shopping some of the stores right in Miraflores. La Quinta, for example, on the corner of Larco and Diez Canseco, is sort of a Marshalls/TJ Maxx Peruvian style, offering all sorts of clothes at very good prices (but watch the quality). A great place to buy simple cooking utensils is in the shops surrounding el Mercado de Surquillo, just over the bridge (crossing the freeway) from Miraflores off Av. Ricardo Palma. You can find all sorts of implements, like orange juice squeezers (exprimador de jugo de naranja), rolling pins, cutting boards, and other tools you might find useful, all handmade and of decent if not spectacular quality. The Mercado itself can be a good place to experience Peruvian food markets - a rich variety of produce, fruits, and meats are available. Peruvian furniture is also worth considering. There are several high-quality furniture stores in Miraflores; but probably the best of all is called Don Bosco in the Santa Beatriz section near downtown Lima. You can arrange shipping for anything that screams to be sitting in your living room - Don Bosco is a cooperative founded by an Italian priest who taught woodworking to orphans living in the Sierra of the department of Ancash, and boasts a unique design that seems to be a mix of Andean and Italian. [edit] SleepBarranco, San Isidro and Miraflores are the best areas in town but come a bit pricier than the city center. [edit] Budget
[edit] Mid-range
[edit] Stay safeWhile there is not much violent crime against tourists, theft is rampant. Watch out for pickpockets constantly. Don't wear gold jewelry. If you carry a purse, a camera, a backpack or just a pair of sunglasses hang on to them at all times, even when eating indoors at a nice cafe, otherwise they might be stolen. If you witness a crime being committed, DO NOT intervene unless you are really sure of what you are doing: many criminals, even pickpockets, carry guns, knifes, etc and may use them if feeling threatened. Avoid the surroundings of Soccer / Football stadiums before and after big matches, since "barras bravas" (hooligans) can be very violent. Ask for advice if you plan to go there or thereabouts. Very infrequently, but occasionally, even in nicer tourist areas, gangs of youths, sometimes from rival high schools, or supporting rival football clubs, or strikers involved in a labor dispute may brawl. If you find yourself caught in the middle of such a confrontation, just try to move out of the way, preferably behind a closed door - these youths generally do not carry lethal weapons, and the worst that is likely to happen is that someone will get hit with a rock before the police arrive to break it up. Some areas of Lima are safer than others: Miraflores and San Isidro have large populations of well-to-do and wealthy Peruvians, not to mention large tourist groups, so they have large police presence to protect the population. Other districts, such as La Victoria, are much much more dangerous. Visitors would be well advised to stay out of these areas unless accompanied by an experienced native or visiting busy areas during daylight hours. Downtown Lima is normally well patrolled but be careful anyway. Callao (the port, technically a different city) is rather rough: ask for advice before going there if you plan to. Staying safe for adults can also require an understanding of the sexual climate of Peru. In general Peru is a relatively conservative country in the sense of male and female roles, but at the same time Peruvians are extremely open to friendships with foreigners. Thus, some males can find themselves suddenly the object of flirtation by attractive young Peruvian women, but then be suddenly rejected for having violated some unwritten line of conduct in, say, discussion topics. Women can find themselves the object of unwanted looks and stares, but at the same time the risk of violence and rape is probably not as high as in many other countries. An important example of this is the Peruvian concept of the "pepera," found at certain night clubs or pubs. Peperas are usually attractive women aged 16 to 25 that deliberately entice foreign tourists and then spike their drinks with sleeping pills and rob them once they're unconscious. Usually peperas work in groups of two, although smaller and larger groups exist as well. Male "peperos" also spike the drinks of women but robbery is often accompanied by rape. Peperas in general are found in dense tourist areas, such as Park Kennedy in Miraflores as well as the Plaza de Armas in central Lima. One locale in particular that is notorious for dangerous peperas is the Tequila Rock discoteca in Miraflores and its sister in Pueblo Libre (La Marina). Another cultural concept worth learning is the "brichera" (or "brichero"). There are two types of bricheras: the first type are women that are genuinely looking to meet foreign men in the hopes of dating or marriage or even a quick fling. The second type are women that search for foreign men with the implicit purpose of exchanging sex for small gifts or money. This second type of brichera is risky, especially for foreigners lacking local sensibilities, since it involves prostitution. These bricheras do not use contraception reliably, and therefore pose a higher risk for transmitting STDs (Sexual Transmited Diseases). If you decide to have a fling, make sure to use a condom! In general, a tried and true technique for staying safe in Lima is to simply maintain a low profile. Leave the Rolex at home, don't wear the fine suit and don't carry a laptop when hailing taxis on the street, and keep a relaxed, friendly, smiling attitude. If you do need to go out dressed like a gringo, call a taxi rather than hire one in the moment - the few moments you wait and the few extra soles you pay will be worth it. [edit] Get out
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