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Hue (Huế) is in the central region of Vietnam and is the former imperial capital.

Guardian statues at the Tomb of Khai Dinh

[edit] Understand

Hue is intimately connected to the imperial Nguyễn Dynasty, based in Hue, who ruled from 1804 to 1945, when the Emperor Bao Dai abdicated in favor of Ho Chi Minh's revolutionary government. The city went through tough times during the Vietnam War, when it was conquered by the Viet Cong and held for 24 days, during which the VC slaughtered around 1,000 people suspected of sympathizing with the South, and then subject to an American bombing campaign to retake the city.

Perfume River

[edit] Orientation

Hue is easy to get a grip on. The main landmark is the Perfume River (Huong Giang), with the old city and the Citadel on the north side and the newer city, including most hotels and restaurants, on the south side. Much of the riverside has wisely been done up as a pleasant promenade and park dotted with bizarre sculptures.

[edit] Climate

Hue's weather is infamously bad: the Truong Son Mountains just to the south seem to bottle up all the moisture, so it's usually misty, drizzly or outright rainy, and things get even drippier than usual in the winter rainy season, especially from February to the end of March.Bring along an umbrella any time of year. Don't forget to bring a sweater and jacket in winter, as it can get rather chilly, with temperatures falling to as low as 14 at night. However, when the sun makes an appearance for a day or a week, it can reach 30.

It's usually quite dry during the summer months, when the temperature can reach the high 30's. Summer rains can be heavy but brief, and often arrive unexpectedly, whereas February rains can last for weeks. The best description for the weather in Hue would be "changeable".

However hot or rainy it may get, Hue should still be high on your list of places to visit, as its beauty more than makes up for the crazy weather.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Hue's small Phu Bai airport fields daily flights to and from Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi, but flights are quite often disrupted by poor weather during the rainy season (Mid October - Mid December). It is 25 minutes away by taxi. The airport facility has recently been renovated.

Danang's airport, only two hours away by car now that the Hai Van Tunnel is open, is busier, better connected and more dependable.

[edit] By train

Several trains a day to Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, Danang (4 hours) etc. The journey down south through the Hai Van Pass is particularly scenic, and from Danang you can take a taxi or motorbike to Hoi An.

A second-class sleeper ticket from Ho Chi Minh City to Hue costs 455,000 dong and offers a wonderful travel experience. The traveller gets to sit, lie and sleep in a very small cabin for 23 hours with five other people (nearly always Vietnamese), eat four plain but tasty and filling Vietnamese meals, listen to a fine selection of Vietnamese pop songs on the PA, and see some incomparably beautiful countryside, particularly in the last section between Da Nang and Hue. It's an excellent way to see the country and meet ordinary Vietnamese, who are unfailingly friendly and helpful, even to travellers who have not bothered to learn a word of their language. The trip is especially recommended if you like babies.

Buy your tickets at the train station, it's well worth your effort. Hotels often over charge by doubling the prices(80usd for softsleeper), often using excuses like it's high season, that they have to buy it at the black market.

[edit] By bus

Public buses from all the bigger cities (including frequent services to Hanoi and Saigon) connect to the main bus station (Ben Xe Hue). Most open tour buses include Hue in their itinerary, connecting to Hoi An or Da Nang to the south (4-6 hours) and Hanoi to the north (13-16 hours). The overnight Hanoi route is popular with locals, but beware of motion sickness among them.

• Sinh Café, 7 Nguyen Tri Phuong St, [1]. Direct buses from Hoi An cost US$4 and leave twice daily: the 08:00-12:00 service stops at the Marble Mountains and makes the trip in 4 hours, while the 14:00-17:00 service manages the trip in three. Buses to Hanoi depart at 17:30 every day (US$9) with stops in Dong Ha and one or two other places.

There are also frequent bus services to Savannakhet and Vientiane in Laos. Buses leave at 06:00 and 18:00. The trip to Savannakhet takes about 12 hours and cost around US$12, to Vientiane about 20 hours and US$15-20. The vehicle can be anything between minibus, air-con bus to a local 30 years old bus. You'll probably have to change bus 3-4 times during the trip and toilets (aside from squatting in the jungle) are seldom available. Tickets can be bought in any booking office in the center of Hue.

[edit] Get around

[edit] By taxi

Like other Vietnamese cities, Hue is flooded with cyclos and motorbikes, as well as a few meter taxis. Taxi drivers are usually honest, but make sure they turn the meter on: trips start at 13,000 dong for the first 2km and tick upward at 8,000 dong/km. A metered trip out see two tombs, with waiting time, should come to around 200,000 dong (US$15).

With cyclos and motorbikes, all of the usual disclaimers apply: negotiate a price ahead of time, and don't be afraid to walk away if they're asking too much. No trip in Hue should cost more than 20,000 dong.

[edit] By bike

Hire a motorbike and join the locals as they swarm across the bridges and along the main roads at a leisurely pace. They're available for around US$5/day from hotels and shops.

Cycling is also a good option, with plenty of bikes available for no more than US$1/day.

[edit] By cyclo

A cyclo is the local versions of the trishaw, with the passenger in front of the cyclist. Be prepared to haggle for reasonable prices as cyclo drivers tend to quote indiscriminately.

[edit] On foot

Hue is quite compact, so you can reach most of the hotels, restaurants, and the Citadel easily on foot. You'll need to arrange transportation to reach the emperors' tombs, though.

[edit] See

[edit] Imperial Citadel

Courtyard of Ngo Mon, with the Thai Hoa Palace in the background

The former imperial seat of government and Hue's prime attraction, this is a great sprawling complex of temples, pavilions, moats, walls, gates, shops, museums and galleries, featuring art and costumes from various periods of Vietnamese history. Thanks to its size, it is also delightfully peaceful - a rare commodity in Vietnam.

The citadel was badly knocked about during fighting between the French and the Viet Minh in 1947, and again in 1968 during the Tet Offensive, when it was shelled by the Viet Cong and then bombed by the Americans. As a result, some areas are now only empty fields, bits of walls, and an explanatory plaque. Other buildings are intact, though, and a few are in sparkling condition. For the rest, while restoration has been going on for 20 years, there is still quite a long way to go. Allow several hours to see it properly. Entry 55,000 dong open 06:30-17:00.

• Ngo Mon. The main southern entrance to the city, built in 1833 by Minh Mang. The central door, and the bridge connecting to it, were reserved exclusively for the emperor. Climb up to the second floor for a nice view of the exquisite courtyard. The Ngo Mon Gate is the principal entrance to the Imperial Enclosure. The Emperor would address his officials and the people from the top of this gate.

• Thai Hoa Palace. The emperor's coronation hall, where he would sit in state and receive foreign dignitaries.

• Truong Sanh Residence. Translated as the "Palace of Longevity", the Truong Sanh Palace was the residence of King Tu Duc’s mother, Empress Tu Du, under the Nguyen Dynasty in the 19th century. It lies in Tu Cam Thanh, one of the two major parts of the Hue Citadel. Currently under renovation, the project, estimated to cost almost VND 30 billion (roughly US $1.8 million), includes the restoration of Lach Dao Nguyen, the Palace's protective moat, decorative man-made rock formations and mountains, bonsai gardens, and the palace gate. The restoration is expected to be completed in 2009, but this is doubtful. While not officially open to the public, it is possible to enter the grounds and should be seen, as even in it's overgrown state, it's beauty is recognizable.

• Forbidden Purple City. Directly behind Thai Hoa Palace, but it was almost entirely destroyed during the 1968 Tet Offensive and only the rather nondescript Mandarin Palaces on both sides remain.

[edit] Tombs of the Emperors

The tomb of Khai Dinh on a misty morning

Lake and pavilion at the tomb of Tu Duc

The other great attractions in Hue are the Tombs of the Emperors, which are located along the Perfume River south of the city. They are accessible by taxi or bike from the city, but the best way to see them is to hire a river boat and go for a cruise. Plan to make a full day of it.

Group tours usually cost about US$2, which includes an excellent (really!) lunch aboard the boat, but does not include admission to the tombs (55,000 dong apiece; cheaper for locals, of course) or the cost of a motorbike from the wharf to each tomb. If you're with a group, the price should be set by the tour company at roughly 25,000 dong for each round-trip. Choose a tour with as few stops as possible. Some companies lard up their itineraries with visits to silk farms and a few pagodas, promising to fit everything in neatly, however tour companies aren't noted for their time management, and you'll wind up rushed along and frustrated for at least one of the tombs.

If you're travelling on your own, boat hire or a motorbike and driver should cost somewhere around US$20, again not including tomb admissions. All of the tombs can be walked to from the wharfs in anywhere from ten minutes to half an hour. The paths are mostly obvious, but you still probably shouldn't try it without a map or a terrific sense of direction. Most of the tombs are open from 7:30am or 8am to 5:30pm, depending on the season; note that the tour groups arrive around 10am and leave around 3pm in order to get back before dinner, so plan accordingly to avoid the crowds. You'll be glad you did.

The tombs are also easily reached by bicycle, although there is a shortage of good maps of how to reach them. Ask your hotel about bicycle rentals and maps, and be cautious on the crowded and potentially potholed roads. This is probably the most inexpensive (and enjoyable, if you enjoy cycling) way to reach the tombs.

The tombs themselves are worth the cost and effort. They mostly date from the late 19th or early 20th centuries, when the Emperors had been reduced to figureheads under French colonial rule and had little else to do than build themselves elaborate tombs. The finest of them are the Tomb of Tu Duc, the Tomb of Minh Mang and the Tomb of Khai Dinh, all of which are excellent examples of Vietnamese Buddhist aesthetics and architecture. The older ones have been allowed to crumble into picturesque semi-ruin, although some are now being restored.

In order of age:

• Tomb of Gia Long (40km) - the most remote of the tombs, quiet and fallen into disrepair as Gia Long, the first Nguyen emperor, was notoriously despotic.

• Tomb of Minh Mang (12km) - in this opulent complex, the main buildings are arranged on an east-west axis, including a courtyard surrounded by warrior statues and several temples and pavilions. Several bridges cross two lakes before the axis ends before the vast burial mound (which is circled by a fence). The mausoleum features large gardens and lakes: a pleasant place to sit and relax. If you're dropped off by boat note that there is a stretch of souvenir sellers to navigate during the short walk to the mausoleum entrance.

• Tomb of Thieu Tri (8km) - built in 1848.

• Tomb of Tu Duc (7km) - Constructed from 183364 to 1867, the complex served as a second Imperial City where the Emperor went for "working vacations". Tu Duc's contemplative nature and poetic spirit is reflected in the landscape and arrangement of the 50 buildings that at one time stood here. A vast, sprawling complex set around a lake, with wooden pavilions and tombs and temples dedicated to wives and favored courtesans (Tu Duc had 104 to choose from). The courtesans' quarters are in ruins, with only outlines and crumbling walls left amid waves of overgrown grass and silence, but other areas are stunningly well-preserved. The Emperor's tomb itself, tucked away in the back, is surprisingly modest - the final courtyard is nearly empty with just a stone coffin in the middle. (The tombs of Empress Le Thien Anh and Emperor Kien Phuc, who briefly ruled in 1884, are also located here.) Try to dodge the crowds for this one.

• Tomb of Dong Khanh - built in 1917.

• Tomb of Khai Dinh (10km) - dating from 1925, this is the best preserved of the lot and, while comparatively compact, quite grand at first sight. While it follows the classic formula of forecourts leading up to the tomb of the Emperor, complete with statues in attendance, architecture buffs will spot some European influences. The tomb itself is completely over the top with incredibly detailed and opulent mosaics of cavorting dragons. Try to get to this one early, as it is a favorite stop for Asian tour-bus groups. Also, you may want to leave the tourist path and head up the hill on the right side of the tomb, where a small temple stands. You will have a great view of the tomb and the valley it faces.

[edit] Other sites

• Thien Mu Pagoda (4km) - perched on a bluff over the river and housing some very fine gold and silver Buddha images. The Thien Mu Pagoda overlooks the Perfume River and is the official symbol of the city of Hue.

• Hue travel agents are keen to sell day-tours of the former Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), which was supposed to be a buffer between North and South Vietnam, but which saw intense fighting. This is also where you can see the famous Vinh Moc tunnels, where a few hundred people lived for two and a half years.Try to book a DMZ tour with Mr Trung if you can. He fought for the South during the Vietnam war, and is open to talking about his personal experiences. He has in-depth knowledge of each site, and he speaks good English, so you can ask him lots of questions. He seems to be located at the Minh and Coco Resto at 1 Hung Vuong street.

• Phu Bai Airport is a must-see if you are interested in the war. The airport was a dirt strip during the Indochina War. Then, during the Vietnam War, an American garrison was assigned there and built up the airport with concrete bunkers, a paved airstrip, and a few other luxuries. The airport was vital in keeping Hue supplied during the Eastertide Offensive of 1972 when "Charlie jumped the line". The airport retains the original buildings built by the Americans; however, they have been retrofitted for use by the Vietnamese.

[edit] Do

• Blind massage - at the institute for the blind, off Phan Boi Chau street about 1km past the train tracks (look for a small blue sign with English). 25,000 dong/hour. All of the staff work and live in this facility, and speak a little English. This is where the locals go.

• My An Hot Spring and Spa - 7km from Hue on the way to Thuan An beach. US$3 for foreigners to use the swimming pool and 2 hot spring pools.

• Thuan An Beach - 15km from Hue.

• Ho Chi Minh Museum 6 D Le Loi - Free admission. Contains photos and information on Ho Chi Minh as well as the history of Hue in photographs.

• Scams There are several "massage parlors" in town (catering strictly to the tourists) that are less than reputable, where the main attraction seems to be attractive girls flirting and chatting up the customer for a big tip. Don't bother asking your hotel for a recommendation, they will try to steer you to the one that provides them the biggest kickback. Also, if buying a bus-ticket, shop around and let them know you are looking for the best price. A bus ticket to Ho Chi Minh City runs around $20-$30, but you will hear quotes as high as $80.

[edit] Buy

A traditional industry of Hue is embroidery, and framed embroidery can be purchased in the many stores of the backpacker area of Hue.

[edit] Eat

Bún bò Huế at Bun Bo Hue

Hue is famed for its Imperial cuisine, originally prepared for the emperor and his retinue. Although the emphasis is more on presentation than taste, an imperial banquet is well worth trying.

The most famous local dish is bún bò Huế, a noodle soup served with slices of beef and lashings of chili oil. Another tasty local treat is sesame candy (mè xửng), which is peanutty, chewy and quite tasty if fresh, and goes for under 10,000 dong/box.

Nem Lui is a dish of sweet, minced pork around bamboo sticks grilled over hot coals. Banh Khoai is a "pancake" filled with bean sprouts, shrimp and pork. Bun Thit Nuong is delicious barbecued pork served with vegetables and noodles.

[edit] Budget

• You and Me, 38 Tran Cao Van. This place is clean, has friendly staff, and seems to be popular with both locals and tourists. Try the local dish, banh khoai, or the restaurant specialty, banana pancake. Both are delicious and cheap. They have lots of other stuff on the menu, from fish to vegetarian noodles, and icy cold local Huda beer. If you want to arrange just about any kind of tour while you eat, they can help you with that too! The DMZ tour with a war vet is an eye-opener. For history or photography buffs, the city tour by motor-bike is a must. Don't forget to admire the bonsai tree at the cash; the owner grows them.

• Bun Bo Hue, 11B Ly Thuong Kiet. This eponymous eatery specializes in its namesake dish. 15,000 dong gets you a bowl with a generous, mouth-meltingly soft (if fatty) cutlet plopped on top.

• Friendly restaurant, D Pham Ngu Lao, an excellent choice with charming staff and a wide range of Vietnamese and European food. Opened in 2005 and owned by a Vietnamese family, Friendly restaurant is in the town's centre.

• Mandarin Café, 12 D Hung Vuong. The owner is also a good photographer and many of his pictures hang on the wall. Worth a look.

• Banh Khoai "Hanh", 11 Pho Duc Chinh- Tel: 054 833552 is known as the best Banh Khoai(Pancake) in Hue. This is a family restaurant. Nem Lui (minced pork grilled with lemon grass on coal) and Banh Beo also recommended.

• Brown eyes restaurant 1/34 Nguyen Tri Phuong - Tel: 054 832572 . You need cheap food and big plates ? Go to brown eyes and you will be satisfied for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

[edit] Mid-range

• Little Italy, 2A Vo This Sau Street [2] Serves the best pizza and pasta in town. Draws a largely caucasian crowd. Unfortunately, most of its other food is not recommended. Call 054826928 for delivery.

• Ong Tao, 31 Chu Van An. 054.823031. Excellent traditional Hue food, try the meat rolls (wrapped in mint leaves) or the fried spring rolls -incredibly crunchy-. Not too crowded, kind of hidden in a first floor. Don't miss it. All dishes (US$1-7) have small and big versions, so you can order a few.

[edit] Splurge

• Tinh Gia Vien, 20/3 Le Thanh Ton, tel. +84-54-522243. Wonderful old Hue-style nha vuon garden villa on a quiet side street, formerly the residence of a princess, converted by a bonsai enthusiast into a restaurant serving Imperial cuisine. There are three set menus at US$10/12/15 ("big", "bigger" or "biggest", according to the menu) but all sets have 11 courses and are guaranteed to fill you up. The food wins full points for presentation, but is unfortunately somewhat toned down for the foreign palate.

[edit] Vegetarian

The people of Hue have a strong tradition of eating vegetarian food, so vegetarian restaurants are more common in Hue than in the rest of Viet Nam. On the 1st and 15th of every lunar month, vegetarian restaurants are packed full of patrons for dinner and it may prove difficult to find a seat. Vegetarian restaurants are the cheapest places to eat, after street vendors.

• Bo De, D Le Loi. Run by the Huong Giang travel company. Serves delicious vegetarian appetizers and entrees. Expect to fill yourself for US$2-3/person.

• Lien Hoa, D Le Quy Don. In the grounds of the Lien Hoa pagoda, across from the football stadium. Monks and nuns frequent this restaurant during lunch. A small shop near the door sells Vietnamese language Buddhist texts, prayer beads and icons.

• Com Chay (vegeterian rice) Is near the River on on the 'newer side' it has simple, but good and cheap vegetrian meals.

[edit] Drink

• B4 Bar-Café, 75 D Ben Nghe. A charming Belgian-Vietnamese owned bar, with a welcoming interior and free pool.

• <drink name="Brown Eyes Chillout Bar-Club" address="56 Chu Van An, Hue" phone="054.827494" email="" fax="" hours="Happy hour(s) 5pm-10pm" price="No cover." url=""> Live DJ, free pool table, and a good vibe. Not far from Pham Ngu Lao, but they offer to pay for taxis from hotels for parties of four persons or more. Stays open till the last ones pass out!</drink>

• Café on Thu Wheels, 1/2 D Nguyen Tri Phuong. It's a little bar owned by the charming lady Thu.

• DMZ Bar & Café, 44 D Le Loi. Stays open late.

[edit] Sleep

There are plenty of cheap traveller hotels and mid-market hotels in Hue, as well as a couple of expensive giants. The largest cluster is around the short lane of Pham Ngu Lao (including Le Loi, Hung Vuong, and Chu Van An). It's not quite as big (or backpackery) as its Ho Chi Minh City namesake, but still a definite tourist magnet.

[edit] Budget

[edit] Mid-range

[edit] Splurge

[edit] Get out

• Hoi An - old merchant port 100km away (about 4 hours by road or train), with Da Nang, the Marble Mountains and China Beach as potential stops along the way

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