• Understand
• Get around
• See
• Do
• Buy
• Eat
• Drink
• Sleep
• Get out

Bulguksa Temple

Gyeongju (경주시, 慶州市; also Kyongju [1]) is in North Gyeongsang province, South Korea.

[edit] Understand

Gyeongju is the former capital of the kingdom of Silla, which ruled most of Korea in the 7th to the 9th century. Due to a history of more than 1,000 years as the residence of Korean rulers it holds a rich heritage of sights and remains of that period. The city undertakes a lot of effort to preserve that heritage.

Today's Gyeongju has a population of around 260,000, but retains a small-city feel and is fairly easy to get around. Not many foreigners make it here, so tourists should expect some attention from the locals, but if you approach them openly you will be rewarded with lots of interesting and positive interaction.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Gyeongju doesn't have its own airport. The nearest are in Busan (Gimhae) and Ulsan, both an hour away by express bus. Bus service between the airports and Gyeongju's main terminal runs hourly.

[edit] By bus

Gyeonju is well serviced by intra-city buses. Service from Daegu, Pohang, and Busan (depending on terminal) leaves every twenty minutes, and hourly between Gyeongju and Seoul. Travel time from Seoul is approximately four hours, and Daegu, Pohang, and Busan are usually 40 minutes to an hour. There is limited daily service to other parts of Korea, and travelers going between Gyeongju and other cities will usually be routed through either Daegu or Busan, depending on direction of travel.

[edit] By train

There are five direct trains per day to Seoul. Because of its location off the central train lines (Gyeongbu Line) to Daegu and Busan, train service to other parts of the country is limited. There is, however, train service to both Busan, Daegu, and Pohang connecting riders to more extensive rail service as well as to the KTX. In addition, there is extensive commuter train service to surrounding communities.

[edit] Get around

The best way to get around the central city is to walk or bike. Sites further afield can be reached using the city's bus system. Be sure to visit the two tourist kiosks to get maps and guides. One is next to the express bus terminal while the other is beside the main train station.

The #10 and #11 buses circle the central city, and many of the most notable tourist destinations, in opposite directions. All buses cost 2,000 won, and don't offer a transfer. There are stops in front of the train station and the bus terminal.

[edit] See

Gyeongju is home to South Korea's first nominated UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

• Gyeongju National Park. Either take a bus or taxi to get to the park. Once there, hiking trails lead up into the mountains. At first the signs are in both Korean and English but soon they become Korean only. Make sure you take a map!

• Bulguksa Temple. A wonderful temple well outside the main city. It can be reached by bus every half-hour. Try to go in the early morning for less tourists. It's a working temple so treat the site with the respect it deserves. Possibly the most impressive temple in Korea.

• The Covered Market close to the Gyeongju train station is a classic example of the Korean market with lots of fresh seafood, food stands and some textiles.

• Seokguram Grotto - the grotto is an amazing site, not to be missed. This is a classic example of high Silla art and architecture, a spectacular Buddhist site. One will ecounter a seated Buddha protected by two sets of 12 royal guards. On the soltice the third-eye of the Buddha is hit by a ray of the sun coming through the dome above his head. The light from the third eye is said to shine South-south-East, in the direction of an ancient temple in the valley below, destroyed by Mongols in the 13th century. The line continues and points exactly to the tomb of King Mum-Mu in the East Sea, 3km father South-south-East. This was said to protect Korea from Japan. Although the grotto is behind a panel of glass, this is to protect it from the breath of thousands of daily tourists. Photography is not permitted inside the grotto due to the sacred nature of the site. It's a meandering 20 minute bus ride from Bulguksa Temple, with buses departing and arriving hourly. Another option is to climb the 2.5km path from behind the temple.

The world famous "Korean tapdancing museum". You can try on various tap shoes, some dating back as far as 16th century Shilla models.

[edit] Do

As a major tourist destination in Korea, Gyeongju is host to many festivals and events.

• Korean Traditional Liquor and Cake Festival. An annual festival held during March and April. Events include traditional music and dance performances, as well as opportunities to learn traditional Korean arts and crafts. However, the highlight of the festival is the rice cakes, traditional tea, and rice wines.

• Hike Namsan Mountain This historically and spiritually significant mountain only 5min south of the central city is littered with historical Buddha reliefs carved into its rocks and boulders as well as dotted with ancient pagodas and temples. A hike up the mountain (466m) through its western valley from the Samneung tomb site is recommended.

• Take a relaxed stroll through the Tumuli Park with 23 old grave hills ('Tumuli') from the Silla period scattered through a well-developed park with beautful paths.

• Take a walk through Wolseong Park where the locals take their well-deserved Sunday break with kites, horse-coach riding or just walking through the beautiful park setting.

[edit] Buy

The best items to buy in Gyeongju are mostly reproductions of Shilla craftworks, such as ceramics, metalworks, and artwork.

[edit] Eat

Unlike many cities in Korea, there is no particular dish the area is known for besides a general association with seafood. However, there are some famous edible items found in Gyeongju that has become reknowned throughout Korea: Hwangnam ppang (ppang being the Korean word for "bread") which is a small ball of silky-smooth sweet red bean paste surrounded by a thin pastry shell, and Gyeongju ppang which is the same sweet red bean paste enclosed between two thin barley bread pancakes. Both can be purchased many places in town (including from a booth at the train station) but the best way to taste them is fresh and warm from the bakery, just across the street to the east from the Flying Horse Tomb (Cheonmacheong) Park.

For seafood, many locals head to Gampo, a village directly on the coast. Most of Gyeongju's fishing catch is brought here and served locally, rather than being exported to other markets. The local hoe (sashimi) is excellent and very fresh.

If you happen to drink too much Gyeodong Beopju you might want to check the famous Haejangguk — a pork spine and coagulated blood stew — at the "Hangover Soup Street".

[edit] Drink

Gyeongju is known for Gyeodong Beopju, a mild rice wine. Although it is principally made from glutenous rice and spring water, locals believe that a boxthorn or Chinese matrimony vine growing near the wellsource of the water has imbued the wine with special medicinal properties and flavor.

• Schuman and Clara, Daehakryo (the main street leading from downtown to Dongguk University, basement level on the right hand side when heading north). One of the best baristas in Korea.

[edit] Sleep

Central Gyeongju Near the train station there are some yeoinsuk (guesthouses) where you can stay for as little as $10 USD/night. However, none of these places have hot water, making it difficult to use the very dirty facilities. There are also roaches in many of the rooms. Far better are the few "motels" near the train station that charge around $20/night.

• Sa Rang Chae Guesthouse, 019-520-4868 Located down an alley next to Tumuli Park and within easy walking distance of several of Gyeongju's other spectacular historical sights. Cozy and inexpensive, for less than 30$/night you can sleep in a traditional style Korean room (there are only a few so call ahead) which surround a common courtyard where guests can meet around the small firepit or in the large modern kitchen/lounge at nighttime and exchange stories. The lounge offers free internet and coffee while a rudimentary make-it-yourself egg and toast breakfast is also included. Difficult to find, and the Lonely Planet guide is incorrect, so check the website and be sure on directions.

Outside Central Gyeongju Bomun Lake Resort Area is home to several luxury hotels aimed at Korean tour groups, including the Hyundai and Hilton Hotels, as well as the Concord, Chosun Spa Hotel, and other more moderately priced hotels. There are also many accommodation facilities near Bulguksa.

[edit] Get out

Buses and trains regularily leave to Busan and other cities, the intercity and express bus terminal are very close to each other at the river.

The travel time to Daegu by train or bus is almost the same but there are far more frequent buses and they're also cheaper.