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Guilin

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Guilin (桂林) is a city in Guangxi Region, China. Guilin is a scenic town and one of the best-known tourist destinations in China. There are many scenic places within short traveling distance of Guilin. These include Longshang with its famous Longji rice terraces; The Li jiang river, a scene of which is printed on the back of ¥20 bank notes; Yangshuo, a small city downstream form Guilin; and much more. This makes Guilin an excellent base for exploring the northern end of Guangxi region. Guilin is a beautiful city. The town center is surrounded by two rivers and four lakes and studded with shear sided karst mountains. Outside the city center, the buildings are less well kept. The main industry in the city is tourism.

Guilin itself is like most other medium size Chinese cities, other than that it has a large amount of western-style hotels, tourists and is relatively free of air pollution. Many Chinese domestic tourists also flock to this area. What makes it special is its proximity to many picturesque limestone mountains and formations.

Looking down from Diecai Shan
Looking down from Diecai Shan

Contents

[edit] Understand

Separated from the center of China and the Yangtze river basin by the Nan mountains, Guangxi has always been distinct from the rest of China. The Han Chinese empire first expanded into Guangxi in the 3rd century BC. The Ling Canal was cut around this time, allowing small boats to transit from the Yangtze to the south flowing Xi River via the Kuei River.

Trade grew along the canal and river routes. Guilin was founded as a trading post in the 1st century BC on the West bank of the Kuei River. During the Ming dynasty, a garrison was set up in Guilin and the surrounding area gradually civilised with the development of farmland. The city had a population of over two million at the time of the Second World War, but was utterly destroyed during the war. The population slowly recovered with post-war construction of several factories for the production of paper, chemicals and agricultural equipment. However, market forces have caused several of these industries to relocate out of Guilin.

Guangxi and Guilin are home to 12 different ethnic minorities besides the Han Chinese. Guangxi is an autonomous region for the Zhuang ethnic group, rather than a province. See List of Chinese provinces and regions for an explanation if needed. Various other minorities, such as the Dong, are also found in the area.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

There are daily flights to Guilin Liangjiang International Airport (KWL) from Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou (¥660 one-way before taxes and service charges as of Nov 2006), Hong Kong, Macau, Bangkok, Hangzhou, Chengdu, Chongqing, Kunming, etc.

[edit] By train

Guilin has two train stations. Guilin station (Guilin Zhan) is in the centre of town on Zhongshan Nanlu while Guilin North station (Guilin Bei Zhan) is far away from downtown area. Most, but not all, trains which originate/terminate in Guilin go to or come from Guilin North while trains which come through Guilin from elsewhere usually only go to Guilin station and not Guilin North.

There are trains from North (Beijing, Changsha, Wuhan, Shanghai, Xian), West (Kunming), South (Liuzhou, Nanning, Zhanjiang), and East (Guangzhou, Shenzhen).

  • From Beijing — If for some reason you need to rush from Beijing to Guilin or vice-versa, there are three trains on either direction. To Beijing, trains depart from Guilin (not Guilin Bei) at 12:59AM (train from Zhanjiang), 3:06PM (from Nanning) and 7:30PM. Journey time is between 22 hour to 30 hours, with the 3:06PM train being the fastest.
  • From Guangzhou and Shenzhen — Two trains to Guangzhou daily, leaving at 6:04PM (from Liuzhou) and 8PM. The latter goes all the way to Shenzhen.
  • From Hong Kong via Guangzhou — It is relatively easy to book a train ticket to either Shenzhen or Guangzhou on MTR, however note that if going to Guangzhou there are two stations in this city, the MTR trains terminate in "Guangzhou Station" and the domestic trains depart from the other "East" station which is on the other side of the city and a fairly long metro ride (English is on the Metro ticket machine). There is a metro entrance in the train station when you arrive in Guangzhou, and its a bit of a pain to find, just look for the stairs going down in a corner of the station. The tickets to Guilin are sold around the corner from this exit, you have to go outside the station and you'll see another set of ticket stalls. Whether there will be tickets available depends on how early you are booking, don't expect to get them for the day of travel.
  • From Kunming — The fastest trains from Kunming are those which go via Nanning and the scenic Nankun railway, taking around 20 hours. Those going via Guiyang take at least 28 hours. If traveling to Kunming, trains depart Guilin at 5:46AM (from Zhengzhou via Guiyang), 8:52AM (via Nanning), 1:34PM (from Nanjing via Guiyang) and 7PM (from Shanghai via Nanning).
  • From Nanning — There are around ten trains to choose from if coming from Nanning (5 to 6 hours). From Guilin (not Guilin Bei) to Nanning, trains depart at 12:13AM (train from Xian), 6:22AM (from Nanchang), 7:48AM, 8:09AM (train from Zhengzhou), 8:26AM, 8:52AM (train to Kunming), 2:36PM (train from Beijing), 4:13PM (from Wuxi), 4:05PM, 7PM (from Shanghai to Kunming). The fastest train is the 8:26AM, taking just 5 hours. All these trains stop at Liuzhou (2 hours from Guilin). One way hard seat ticket cost ¥65.

WARNING: Once you get out of the train station, you will be approached by cab drivers/other drivers alike. While their cab meters are not dodgy, they might use a few tricks to offload you of some RMB. Our cab driver tried to sell us tours, failing which, at the end of trip, she pulled out a piece of dubious-looking, pseudo-official piece of paper, declaring that gas surcharge is actually 2RMB. (gas surcharge is supposed to be 1RMB)

[edit] By car

There are some expressways locally and within the province, however for any long distance journey, it is a 2 lane road.

[edit] By bus

  • From Yangshuo — Minibuses (¥10) depart when full from the square in front of the Guilin railway station. Although the signs are written in Chinese, there are always conductors yelling out "Yangshuo". As the buses pick-up and let down passengers along the way, the journey time can take anything from one to one-half hours. Express buses (¥15) depart from the Xiangzhou (Guilin) bus terminal off Zhongshan Nanlu, several hundred metres north of the railway station (and on the same side of the road as the station). Buses depart about every half hour from 7AM. Buy tickets from counters in the bus terminal.
  • From elsewhere — Buses link Guilin with a multitude of destinations, including Nanning, Kunming, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Zhuhai and further afield. Buses depart from the Xiangzhou (Guilin) bus terminal on Zhongshan Nanlu, several hundred metres north of the railway station.

[edit] By boat

You can get to Guilin by cargo boat from Guangzhou via Wuzhou, but there are no passenger boats to Guilin anymore, except the boats to and from Yangshuo. You can take a cargo boat offcourse if you want to at almost no cost from Wuzhou to Yangshuo.

[edit] Get around

Getting a local map from a tourist guide or shop (for about ¥5) is a good idea. This will show the location of most of the sights as well as details of bus routes. Buses are a ideal way to get around Guilin on a budget. Many city parks and river spots can be accessed easily by bus. All the buses starting with 5# are free. A useful one is bus 58 which runs from the train station (& bus station) to many of the attractions.

Taxis are also inexpensive and easily hailed within the city.

[edit] See

  • <see name="Reed Flute Cave" alt="" address="" directions="about 5km west of Guilin. Catch bus 3 or rent bikes and buy a map for a pleasant cycle" phone="" email="" fax="" url="" hours="8AM-5:30PM" price="¥60">This limestone cave with impressive stalactite and stalagmite formations is worth a visit. An English-speaking guide will take you around the various artificially lit formations supposedly resembling lions, monkeys, old men, the skyline of Guilin, etc. You may have to wait a while for a large enough group to accumulate. Avoid the hawkers by taking the elevated path on the side of the hill, rather than the tarmac road.</see>
  • <see name="Elephant Trunk Hill" alt="" address="" directions="Within walking distance of the town center and near to bus routes 23 and 16" phone="+86 773 2803000" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price="¥30">This park on the banks of the Li River contains a hill with a large natural arch cut into it. This resembles the trunk of an Elephant dipping into the river. This scene is frequently used as a symbol of the city and so has developed some fame.</see>
  • <see name="Fubo Hill" alt="" address="" directions="" phone="+86 773 2803000" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price="">A park in the northeast of the City on the banks of the Li River. The park contains historical stone carvings and Buddhist inscriptions. Fubo Hill itself is an impressive shear sided rock.</see>
  • <see name="Yaoshan Hill Park" alt="" address="" directions="Several km east of the city center. Bus routes 10 and 98 run nearby but still leave a lengthy walk to the park" phone="+86 773 5864592" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price="">This is a large country park which encompasses the highest peak in the area. Foot paths run to the summit, however the chair lift provides an effortless way to attain the top and enjoy the scenery. There are extensive views of the surrounding area from the sumit. There is a toboggan run down part of the mountain. To access this, dismount the chairlift at the station half way down the mountain. A taxi to and from the park will cost about ¥30 each way.</see>
  • <see name="Jing Jiang Princes City Park" alt="" address="" directions="" phone="+86 773 2803149" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price="">In the center of the city lies a small forbidden city. Once home to the Princes of the area. The palace buildings are now a museum and park.</see>
  • <see name="Ocean Aquarium" alt="" address="On Zhongshan Road" directions="South of the city center. Bus routes 4, 11, 12, 19, 99 and 56 pass here. Next to the South Stream Hill Park" phone="+86 773 3816822" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price="">One of the largest aquariums in Asia. This modern facility has a wide range of fish and other aquatic animals.</see>

[edit] Do

  • River trip down the Li River — A popular and worthwhile activity for most travellers to this area. A river trip on the Li is a great experience. The boats are frequent and easily organised by any hotel in Guilin. Most tourists will go from Guilin to Yangshuo (a very picturesque smaller town downstream of Guilin). The river winds through some truly spectacular limestone formations and a slow boat trip there and back (with a stop in Yangshuo) will take a whole day.

There are many more activities nearby in neighbouring towns and villages:

  • The Guilin Merryland World Resort [1], located about 1 hours drive north of Guilin offers two attractions:

[edit] Learn

[edit] Work

[edit] Eat

The local delicacy is Guilin Rice Noodles (Gui Lin Mi Fen), also available as stir-fried (Chao Fen). This is served everywhere, but try to avoid the joints near the train station. Traditionally the noodle and the topping is first eaten without soup, and once the topping has run out there is usually a pot of soup to add flavour to the rest of your noodles. There are also various pickles and condiments that you can add to your noodles.

A local snack is "horse hoof cake" (Ma Ti Gao), which is a crumbly cake stuffed with red beans filling. Another delicious breakfast item is sweet tofu infused with a certain flower. Look for roadside vendors adding orange-coloured liquid to a steaming hot bag of tofu, which you then drink with a straw.

[edit] Budget

[edit] Mid-range

  • Rosemary Cafe, Located in the pedestrianized area near Jiefang Qiao. Good coffee and western food.
  • Hao Heng Shi Jia, Middle Zhong Shan Rd, 9, 2nd floor. Good steaks, western and Chinese food. Located on the main shopping street. Internet cafe just upstairs.
  • Sharon's Coffe, ☎ 0773 586 1855, Chuanshan South Road (street to Chuanshan Park, at the corner Lijiang Road, near by Li River Chuanshan Bridge). Pleasant atmosphere, coffee, cocktails, excellent Western food (try the Schnitzel :).

Sharons Coffee restaurant is excellent , Sharon known as 'Shaz' to the Aussies is your host and goes out of her way to help you highly recommended, the best western food in town. She makes great western iced coffee

[edit] Drink

Liquan beer and osmanthus tea.

[edit] Sleep

Guilin is a tourism city. There are many hotels, more than 30 five-star hotels, 100 four-star hotels, and 200 three-star hotels.

[edit] Budget

[edit] Mid-range

[edit] Splurge

  • Sheraton Hotel.

[edit] Contact

[edit] Stay safe

  • Watch your valuables closely in the in the central city. As in many tourist locations pickpoketing is a common occurrence.
  • Also, be careful with the begging children in the city parks as there are rumours of them claiming assault if you do not buy flowers from them. The parents apparently act as "witnesses" to the assault.

[edit] Cope

[edit] Get out

It is well worth heading out of Guilin, and staying in the friendly and picturesque town of Yangshuo. The full day boat trip along the Li River is popular. Getting there by taxi, bus and train is also an option.

It's possible to get all the way to Hanoi, Vietnam from Guilin. Catch the afternoon train to Nanning (5hrs), stay overnight in a cheap station hotel and get the early morning bus to Hanoi, arriving about 3PM depending on traffic. This train, hotel and bus package is available for around ¥400.