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Chicago > Lakeview-North Center -->
...one hundred years and counting, Wrigley Field
Lakeview has the lion's share of Chicago nightlife, starting with Wrigleyville, home of the Chicago Cubs and major players in the city's theater and music scenes, and Boystown, one of the largest and most vibrant GLBT communities in the United States. Down the street from both is the Belmont strip, where teen punks flock to shop and show off in the Dunkin' Donuts parking lot.
Further west are the neighborhoods of North Center, Roscoe Village and St. Ben's, which have fun, laid-back bars and restaurants.
[edit] Understand
For many years, Lakeview was so far away from the action that opening a saloon on Clark Street was a considered a peaceful retirement for convicted ex-politicians in Chicago. With the expansion of the elevated train system, however, that changed rapidly, and with the 1914 construction of Weeghman Park, later to be known as Wrigley Field, Lakeview became the capital of the North Side. The Chicago Cubs, also known as the most dominant baseball franchise of the 19th century, took up residence at Wrigley and commenced the relentless lack of success that has made them famous. Other teams have slumps, but the Cubs are beyond compare, tormenting their fans a hundred years of near-misses, late collapses, and abject futility unrivaled in American professional sports. So why is Game Day still a joy in Wrigleyville? As the last franchise in baseball to install stadium lights for night games, the Cubs' schedule still features more early afternoon starts than any other team in the league, and the sun-soaked ivy walls of Wrigley Field are a pleasure no matter what the score. Today, it's a rare thing in America: a genuine neighborhood ballpark, surrounded by streets that amplify the Cubs fandom into frenzy on game day. As a nightlife destination, Wrigleyville also supports The Metro, one of Chicago's foremost rock venues, and other great ones like Schuba's and The Vic. The storefront theater scene also thrives here.
But there's more to Lakeview than Wrigleyville. A short walk east is Boystown, home of a cheerful, lively GLBT community and a great destination for anyone who enjoys high-energy nightlife. It's also home to the massive annual Pride Parade in June. Roscoe Village is west of Wrigley, and is popular with older gay couples and young people lured in by fashionable boutiques and the promise of a sunny day at one of the many sidewalk cafes on Southport, not to mention Chicago's premier movie revival house, the Music Box. And Lakeview embraces its inner dive bar in North Center, full of converted warehouses, quality bowling alleys and cheap beer without the jocks.
[edit] Get in
[edit] By train
The CTA Red Line makes stops in Lakeview (Belmont) and Wrigleyville (Addison, Sheridan). The Brown Line, further west, connects with the Red Line at Belmont, but makes additional stops in Lakeview (Diversey, Wellington - closed til 6/2009, Southport), Roscoe Village (Paulina - closed til 4/2009), and North Center (Addison, Irving Park - closed til 12/2008). As long as the weather is favorable, the distances between a closed Brown Line station and the next one down the line is walkable.
[edit] By bus
- 8 Halsted travels through Boystown. Be warned, though, that a recent poll named this the worst bus route in the city. It's late when it shows up and goes nowhere fast.
- 11 Lincoln runs from Lincoln Park through some nice parts of Roscoe Village and North Center, connecting with the Brown Line at Paulina, and on to Lincoln Square.
- 22 Clark runs the length of the north side, but it slows to a crawl through Wrigleyville, particularly on weekends and on days of Cubs games.
- 36 Broadway comes in from Uptown and carries on to the Loop.
- 49 Western runs all night through most of the city and hits the Belmont/Western intersection, near which is the best of the Roscoe Village nightlife.
- 77 Belmont runs all night and connects Roscoe Village with the Belmont Red/Brown Line stop and Boystown.
- 80 Irving Park runs most of the east/west length of the city, connecting with the Brown Line in North Center.
- 152 Addison travels east/west through the edge of Boystown, Wrigleyville, and on to North Center.
[edit] By car
Lake Shore Drive has exits at Belmont and Addison. Beware of driving on Clark Street on weekends and during Cubs games, though. The taxis are a menace and the drunks are drawn to the middle of the street like flies to lights. You'll go nowhere fast and see Chicago at its worst in slow-motion.
Baseball on the mind, Wrigleyville
- <see name="Wunders Cemetery" alt="" address="3963 N Clark St" directions="Sheridan Red Line" phone="+1 773 525-4038" email="" fax="" url="" hours="" price="Free"> Overshadowed by the magnificent Graceland Cemetery across the street in Uptown, the smaller, slightly overgrown Wunders was established in 1859 and features some intriguing monuments, with more of a forgotten-by-time atmosphere than its more famous neighbor. A third cemetery, Jewish Graceland, is directly south.</see>
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A few great venues are also listed under Drink as well.
[edit] Theaters
[edit] Events & Festivals
There are a few shopping areas of note. The Southport Corridor (3300 N to 3800 N) has a row of independent boutiques. Some have been hit hard by the long closure of the Southport Brown Line stop, but it's still good for window-shopping. Lincoln Avenue in Roscoe Village also has some worthwhile shops, particularly near the Paulina Brown Line stop. Clark Street near Diversey has a few chain retailers like Marshall's and smaller stores in their shadow, anchored by the massive Century Shopping Centre (see below).
On game days, the streets of Wrigleyville are packed with vendors selling cheap Cubs gear.
- <buy name="The Alley" alt="" address="3228 N Clark St" directions="Belmont Red/Brown/Purple Line" phone="" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="http://www.thealley.com/servlet/StoreFront"> The rock 'n roll shop in Chicago. Styles extend into punk, mod, emo, rockabilly, and goth; offerings range from clothes, shoes, and jewelry to bondage gear. It's the kind of edgy that is loved by no one as much as teenagers. Look for the skull and crossbones logo.</buy>
- <buy name="Anthropologie" alt="" address="3532 N Southport Ave" directions="Southport Brown Line" phone="+1 773 935-2693" email="" fax="" url="http://www.anthropologie.com/anthro/index.jsp" hours="" price=""> Librarian chic clothes boutique.</buy>
- <buy name="Century Shopping Centre" alt="" address="2828 N Clark St" directions="" phone="+1 773 929-8100" url="" hours="Most stores M-F 10:30AM-9PM, Sa 10:30AM-6PM, Su 12-6PM; open later for movies" price="" lat="" long="" email="" fax="">A vertical mall headlined by the Landmark's Century Centre multiplex [1] showing independent and foreign movies, and several floors of stores from fashion chains like The Express to chains that provide +3 against sorcery at Gamers Paradise.</buy>
- <buy name="Gaymart" alt="" address="3457 N Halsted St" directions="Belmont Red/Brown/Purple Line" phone="+1 773 929-4272" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url=""> Who could resist a store with such a name? With a large variety of gay-themed items and a cheerful lack of restraint, Gaymart is a must for Boystown shoppers.</buy>
- <buy name="Pink Frog" alt="" address="3201 N Clark St" directions="" phone="+1 773 525-2680" email="" fax="" url="" hours="M-Sa 11AM-7:30PM, Su 12-5PM" price=""> One of the best places in Chicago for cute and stylish shoes for women, and a selection of jackets and skirts to match. If you can't find the shoes you want here, the DSW Warehouse at 3131 N Clark is huge and might have them.</buy>
- <buy name="Ragstock" alt="" address="812 W Belmont Ave" directions="Belmont Red Line" phone="+1 773 868-9263" email="" fax="" url="http://www.ragstock.com/html/locations.html" hours="M-Th 10AM-9PM, F-Sa 10AM-10PM, Su 12-7PM" price=""> Cheap re-sale clothes shop. They also have a location in Wicker Park, but this one is open later (for those impulse fedoras) and has two floors.</buy>
- <buy name="Twosided" alt="" address="2958 N Clark St" directions="Wellington Brown Line" phone="+1 773 244-6431" url="http://www.twosided.net" hours="Mon-Sat 11AM-7PM, Sun 11AM-6PM" price="" lat="" long="" email="" fax=""> Excellent selection of letterpress cards and other artful items, antiques, and one-of-a-kind objects. They also have a framing gallery in Andersonville, Foursided, but this one is a true gem.</buy>
- <buy name="Uncle Fun" alt="" address="1338 W Belmont Ave" directions="Belmont Red/Brown/Purple Line" phone="+1 773 477-8223" email="" fax="" url="http://www.unclefunchicago.com/" hours="Tu-F 12-7PM, Sa 11AM-7PM, Su 11AM-5PM" price=""> Somewhere between a treasure hunt, a toy store, and a state of derangement — all designed, in their own words, to Restore your Whimsical Nature.</buy>
It's not until you reach the high-end that Lakeview dining becomes especially memorable, but there are plenty of quick, reliable places. Most importantly, a lot of them are open late — this is probably the best place in the city to grab a bite after midnight.
[edit] Budget
[edit] Mid-range
[edit] Splurge
[edit] Boystown
The nightlife in Boystown may be the best in Chicago. It's wild, uninhibited and just plain fun, regardless of sexual orientation. Most of the action is on Halsted/Broadway between Addison and Belmont.
- <drink name="Charlie's" alt="" address="3726 N Broadway St" directions="" phone="+1 773 871-8887" email="" fax="" url="http://www.charlieschicago.com/" hours="Su-F 3PM-4AM, Sa 3PM-5AM" price=""> Late night dance bar and a great place for the after hours party, although they play country for the early crowd before midnight on weeknights or 2AM on the weekends. Karaoke hits on Sunday and Thursday.</drink>
- <drink name="The Closet" alt="" address="3325 N Broadway St" directions="" phone="+1 773 477-8533" email="" fax="" url="http://www.theclosetbar.com/" hours="M-F 2PM-4AM, Sa 12PM-5AM, Su 12PM-4AM" price=""> Forgive the pun if you can — this lesbian dive bar is another great after hours destination and the place to go for hook-up attempts that drag late into the night. It's open a lot earlier in the day than most Boystown spots and usually has sports or music videos on by day.</drink>
- <drink name="Cocktail" alt="" address="3359 N Halsted St" directions="" phone="+1 773 477-1420" email="" fax="" url="" hours="Su-F 4PM-2AM, Sa 4PM-3AM" price=""> A small, fashionable bar that anyone can walk right into for a drink at the bar or a dance among the eye candy at the back.</drink>
- <drink name="Hydrate" alt="" address="3458 N Halsted St" directions="" phone="+1 773 975-9244" email="" fax="" url="http://www.hydratechicago.com/" hours="Su-F 8PM-4AM, Sa 8PM-5AM" price="Cover $10-20, depending on DJ and event"> Inheritor of the space formerly owned by the infamous Manhole, Hydrate is now the ultimate dance club to See-and-Be-Seen on Halsted. On a night out in Boystown, everybody winds up here at one point or another.</drink>
- <drink name="Roscoe's" alt="" address="3356 N Halsted St" directions="" phone="+1 773 281-3355" email="" fax="" url="http://www.roscoes.com/" hours="M-Th 3PM-2AM, F 2PM-2AM, Sa 1PM-3AM, Su 1PM-2AM" price=""> Roscoe's is a multi-purpose bar — by night, there are good drink specials and a great dance floor, but by day, you'll find a relaxed neighborhood bar with artwork by local artists and a sidewalk cafe (in the summer) for lunch.</drink>
- <drink name="Sidetracks" alt="" address="3349 N Halsted St" directions="" phone="+1 773 477-9189" email="" fax="" url="http://www.sidetrackchicago.com/" hours="Su-F 3PM-2AM, Sa 3PM-3AM" price=""> A large, stylish, multi-room bar that makes a great place to start the night, with slushy drinks and showtunes on a big screen. (Sundays are sing-along nights.) Gay or straight, this is one of the best bars in Chicago.</drink>
[edit] Wrigleyville
Anthropologists differ over whether research could uncover meaningful differences between the bars on Clark Street. Some believe it possible, after extensive analysis of half-eaten piles of rancid nachos and date rape statistics, but even the most optimistic agree that it would take several months and exact a terrifying toll on the unfortunate individual entrusted with the work.
Wherever the truth may lie, if you want to watch a Cubs game in a bar with Cubs fans, you're better off heading a few blocks north or west. (Murphy's Bleachers [2] does deserve special mention for being directly outside the stadium on Sheffield and Waveland, though.)
- <drink name="The Ginger Man" alt="" address="3740 N Clark St" directions="Addison Red Line" phone="+1 773 549-2050" email="" fax="" hours="M-F 3PM-2AM, 12PM-3AM, Su 12PM-2AM" price="" url=""> Guaranteed the only bar in Wrigleyville with Joy Division and Public Enemy on the jukebox. If you want a beer after a Cubs game and you don't want to be surrounded by frat boys, this is the place. Next to the Metro and Smart Bar.</drink>
- <drink name="Lakeview Broadcasting Company" alt="LBC" address="3542 N Halsted St" directions="" phone="+1 773 857-2444" email="" fax="" url="http://www.lbcchicago.com/site.html" hours="W 6-10PM, Th-F 6PM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM, Su-Tu closed" price=""> It's not very big, but the trendy LBC is comfortable and has a great mid-20's/mid-30's crowd and refreshingly mixed clientele — gay and straight, black and white, nerds and fashionistas.</drink>
- <drink name="Smart Bar" alt="" address="3730 N Clark St" directions="Addison Red Line" phone="+1 773 549-0203" email="" fax="" hours="W-F,Su 10PM-4AM, Sa 10PM-5AM" price="Tickets may be necessary, depending on the event; if so, they're on sale at the Metro, and usually cost about $10" url=""> Partner of the Metro (see above), which is next door. Smart Bar features touring DJs and a stable of high-caliber DJs-in-residence.</drink>
- <drink name="Uncommon Ground" alt="" address="3800 N Clark St" directions="Addison Red Line" phone="+1 773 929-3680" email="" fax="" url="http://www.uncommonground.com/" hours="Su-Th 9AM-11PM, F-Sa 9AM-midnight" price=""> It's almost unbelievable that such a lovely, relaxed bar/cafe is this close to Wrigley, but there it is. Evenings see a full schedule of acoustic music with a full bar of beer, cocktails, and wine, while organic breakfast, lunch and dinner are served all day, and two fireplaces await in the winter. Uncommon Ground also hosts the annual Jeff Buckley Festival, now in its tenth year, in honor of the singer's legendary 1994 performance there.</drink>
[edit] Others
Lakeview bars may get a bad name from the roiling mess on Clark Street, but there are actually several great places to drink within range of Wrigley.
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- <drink name="404 Wine Bar" alt="" address="2852 N Southport Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 404-5886" email="" fax="" hours="M-F 5PM-2AM, Sa 5PM-3AM" price="" url=""> Comfortable atmosphere and a wide variety of wines. It may not be the first thing you think of when you think about a wine bar, but they serve a chicken pot pie that is delicious. It's connected to Jack's next door, which is more of a sports bar.</drink>
- <drink name="Beat Kitchen" alt="" address="2100 W Belmont Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 281-4444" email="" fax="" url="http://www.beatkitchen.com/" hours="M-Th 4PM-2AM, F 11:30AM-2AM, Sa 11:30AM-3AM, Su 11:30AM-2AM" price=""> There's beer and late-night food in the quiet front room, but the Beat Kitchen is worthy of recognition as one of the best venues in the city outside of Wicker Park for double or triple bills of excellent, little-known local and touring bands. Tuesdays are set aside for the Chicago Underground Comedy stand-up showcase.</drink>
- <drink name="Fizz Bar & Grill" alt="" address="3220 N Lincoln Ave" directions="Paulina Brown Line" phone="+1 773 348-6000" email="" fax="" url="http://fizzchicago.com/" hours="M-F 5PM-2AM, Sa 12PM-3AM, Su 11AM-1AM" price=""> Nothing exceptional — just a bar on the classy side of things with a good beer garden, upscale food menu, and a dance floor that occasionally gets going.</drink>
- <drink name="Hungry Brain" alt="" address="2319 W Belmont Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 935-2118" email="" fax="" url="http://www.emergingimprovisers.org/hungrybrain.html" hours="Tu-Su 8PM-2AM, M closed" price=""> There's a lot to like at this small Roscoe Village bar: a few pinball and arcade machines, the sense of being in someone's comfortable basement (with beer), and the Sunday night (10PM) Transmission series for improvisational and experimental jazz.</drink>
- <drink name="Jake's Pub" alt="" address="2932 N Clark St" directions="" phone="+1 773 248-3318" email="" fax="" url="http://www.jakespub.net/home.html" hours="M-F 3PM-2AM, Sa noon-3AM, Su noon-2AM" price=""> A good place to recover from shopping binges at the Century Shopping Centre and its neighbors (see Buy). Jake's has a good beer selection and dependable jukebox. Dogs are not only welcome — they're encouraged.</drink>
- <drink name="Johnny's Tavern" alt="" address="3425 N Lincoln Ave" directions="Paulina Brown Line" phone="+1 773 248-3000" email="" fax="" url="" hours="Hours vary" price=""> About as far from the Wrigleyville bar scene as you can possibly get; this legendary, straight-outta-1974 tavern is owned by an old man, Johnny, who is well into his eighties. If he chooses to let you in — after you've rang the doorbell, and waited patiently for admittance — you'll enjoy cheap Czech beers and a time-warp.</drink>
- <drink name="Katerina's" alt="" address="1920 W Irving Park Rd" directions="" phone="+1 773 348-7592" email="" fax="" hours="M-F 5PM-2AM, Sa 5PM-3AM" price="" url="http://www.katerinas.com/"> A small and intimate setting for jazz, funk, blues, and Greek music most nights, and poetry, performance and movies when there isn't music. Southern European cuisine served along with the drinks.</drink>
- <drink name="The Long Room" alt="" address="1612 W Irving Park Rd" directions="Irving Park Brown Line" phone="+1 773 665-4500" email="" fax="" url="" hours="M-F 5PM-2AM, Sa 5PM-3AM, Su 7PM-2AM" price=""> A low-lit neighborhood lounge with a casual atmosphere worth settling into for a while — and, yes, it's a very long room.</drink>
- <drink name="Resi's Bierstube" alt="" address="2034 W Irving Park Rd" directions="Irving Park Brown Line" phone="+1 773 472-1749" email="" fax="" url="" hours="3PM-2AM" price=""> A fine old-fashioned brauhaus, with high marks for the music, the beer garden, and the ambiance. Food on offer from the kitchen (closed Mondays) includes sausages and schnitzel, of course. </drink>
- <drink name="Schuba's Tavern" alt="" address="3159 N Southport Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 525-2508" email="" fax="" hours="Shows start 9-10:30PM" price="Tickets $10-$18" url="http://www.schubas.com/"> One of Chicago's landmark venues for cool music. The building was built over a hundred years ago by the Schlitz beer company, a heritage that is acknowledged by countless plastic cups serving that and other cheap beers for indie rock fans.</drink>
- <drink name="Ten Cat Tavern" alt="" address="3931 N Ashland Ave" directions="Irving Park Brown Line" phone="+1 773 935-5377" email="" fax="" url="" hours="Su-F 3PM-2AM, Sa 3PM-3AM" price=""> The kitty on the sign is cradling a ten-ball because there's pool to be played here, but in most other respects, this is someone's apartment that happens to have a bar in it (and a pretty good backyard).</drink>
Most visitors will feel comfortable staying here in terms of safety, and Lakeview is a better place to experience something of the real city than the retail isolation of the Near North. Given the party atmosphere and adult-centered attractions, though, it's probably better for singles and young couples than families with kids in tow. (You can get to Wrigley from anywhere in the city, after all.)
There are also a handful of budget and mid-range options just south of Boystown in Lincoln Park. Hotels are usually booked solid for the Pride Parade in June, so make reservations early or be ready to check in other areas.
[edit] Mid-range
[edit] Splurge
[edit] Contact
- <listing name="Computer Network Source" alt="" directions="Wellington Brown Line" address="2917 N Broadway St" phone="+1 773 755-5225" email="" fax="" hours="" price="Remarkably cheap at $3/hour" url="http://www.compnetsource.com/browse.html"> Scanning, printing, CD-burning available.</listing>
- <listing name="Merlo Branch Library" alt="" directions="Belmont Red/Brown/Purple Line" address="644 W Belmont Ave" phone="+1 312 744-1139" email="" fax="" url="http://www.chipublib.org/002branches/merlo/merlo.html" hours="M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su closed" price=""> Free public internet access. Three blocks east of the train station, near Boystown.</listing>
- <listing name="Lincoln/Belmont Branch Library" alt="" directions="Paulina Brown Line" address="1659 W Melrose St" phone="+1 312 744-0166" email="" fax="" url="http://www.chipublib.org/002branches/linbelm/linbelm.html" hours="M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM, Su closed" price=""> Free public internet access. Three blocks south of the train station.</listing>
[edit] Get out
- If it's a crosstown baseball series, you'll need to get on the Red Line and head south to Bridgeport for the Chicago White Sox.
- It would take more than one curse to put the Cubs in their current condition, but the most famous of them, the Billy Goat Curse, began with the owner of the Billy Goat Tavern in the Near North.
- Follow the theater trail in the storefront comedy direction to Uptown or the big-name comedy/drama direction in Old Town.
- Andersonville is a stylish neighborhood a short trip northwest of Boystown with several gay and lesbian-friendly bars and businesses.
- Edgewater has the GLBT Gerber/Hart Library and the less scholarly Leather Archives and Museum. During the summer, Chicago's gay community tans at Edgewater's Hollywood Beach.
- Dedicated to original theater that explores gender and sexual identity, the About Face Theater Company [3] performs at major theaters like Steppenwolf in Old Town and storefronts around Boystown.
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