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Far Northwest Side

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Polski deals, Jackovo
Polski deals, Jackovo

The Far Northwest Side of Chicago includes the neighborhoods of Avondale and the Polish Village (Jackowo and Wacławowo), with large Polish communities, Irving Park and Old Irving, quiet areas with historic homes, and Forest Glen, Jefferson Park, Norwood Park, Edison Park, Edgebrook, Dunning, and Portage Park, residential areas which have nice parks, old theaters, and some big annual festivals.

These are the neighborhoods closest to O'Hare International Airport.

Contents

[edit] Understand

The Far Northwest Side is, for many travelers, nothing more than a blur of drab buildings seen from the expressway or the Blue Line on their way to O'Hare. And only the most fervent of true believers could make an argument that it ought be anywhere near the top of a first-time visitor's list. None of the city's most famous landmarks are located here; nothing in the best-known history or literature about Chicago happened here. In fact, most Chicagoans would find the Far Northwest Side as unfamiliar as someone right off a plane from the coast.

What is here, though, is a group of large, residential communities and a handful of treasures they've grown accustomed to keeping for themselves, unencumbered by style or pace. Sausage shops and old-style Italian restaurants carry on as if health food and celebrity chefs never happened. If you're serious about trying a Chicago-style hot dog at the peak of the form, you'll do well here. Two classic movie palaces awaken for special events, and there are strong contenders for the city's best music venue and original theater venue — the Abbey Pub and the Prop Thtr, respectively.

Plenty of tourists and locals have tried "going Chinese" for a night in Chinatown, but an even more immersive (and less-traveled) experience is "going Polish." English slides to second on the signs, the food makes sweet love to your waist, and the beer flows cheap at your choice of fab discos straight out of Eastern Europe or laid-back dives with you and the regulars. Famously, Chicago has the largest population of Polish people of any city in the world save Warsaw. If you never make it to Poland, at least you can say you've been to Avondale.

So once you're sick of the screaming brats in Lakeview and Lincoln Park, the scuzz in Uptown, the tourist traps on the Mag Mile, the crowds in the Loop, the hipsters in Wicker Park, the confusion in Rogers Park, the pretension in Hyde Park, the cranks in Bridgeport — and you're in the mood to experience Chicago all over again, for the first time — then the Far Northwest Side may have something for you.

[edit] Get in

[edit] By train

The CTA Blue Line has stops throughout the northwest side of Chicago in Avondale (Belmont, Addison), Irving Park (Irving Park, Montrose), Jefferson Park (Jefferson Park), and Norwood Park (Harlem), before passing into the orbit of O'Hare Airport (Cumberland, Rosemont, O'Hare). You may need to connect with a bus, though, as these stops are pretty far west, and there's a lot of ground between them and the Brown Line to the east.

The end of the CTA Brown Line is within reach of Irving Park (Kedzie, Kimball).

The Metra Union Pacific Northwest Line has stops in Irving Park, Jefferson Park, Norwood Park, and Edison Park, while the Metra Milwaukee District North line stops at Mayfair/Irving Park, Forest Glen and Edgebrook. The former ends at Ogilvie/Northwestern Station and the latter at Union Station, both in the Loop.

[edit] By bus

The CTA runs a few buses here:

  • 53 Pulaski runs all night through Irving Park and Avondale. The 53A runs express.
  • 54 Cicero runs through the eastern half of the area, although it's not an all-night route.
  • 56 Milwaukee runs from Wicker Park and Logan Square through the heart of the Polish Village and most the Far Northwest Side.
  • 78 Montrose connects with the Blue Line at the Montrose station, handy for trips in Portage Park or Irving Park.
  • 80 Irving Park is, as you might expect, ideal for Irving Park and Old Irving. Connections can be made with the Irving Park Blue Line or Brown Line stops.
  • 81 Lawrence runs from Uptown to Jefferson Park, with a connection at the Damen Brown Line stop.
  • 82 Kimball/Homan connects with the Blue Line at Belmont and the Brown Line at Kimball, and can save you a bit of walking from the Blue Line to places like Abbey Pub.

PACE buses cover the regions that cross over into the suburbs:

  • 270 gets up and down Elston in Edison Park.
  • 290 covers Touhy Avenue in Edgebrook and Edison Park.

[edit] By car

I-90/94 (aka "The Kennedy") runs through the center of Chicago and then to the western parts of the city, where it joins I-190. I-90/190 go to O'Hare Airport, while I-94 splits off to reach the northern and northwest suburbs. The most useful exits are off the Kennedy at Lawrence Avenue and Ill-19/Irving Park Road.

[edit] See

  • <see name="Carl Schurz High School" alt="" address="3601 N Milwaukee Ave" directions="56 Milwaukee bus" phone="+1 773 534-3420" email="" fax="" url="http://www.schurzhs.org/" hours="" price=""> A massive 1910 Prairie School masterpiece by Dwight Perkins, possibly the biggest example of the architectural style, and still a working high school. It's an impressive sight.</see>
  • <see name="Copernicus Foundation" alt="" address="5216 West Lawrence Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 777-8898" email="" fax="" url="http://www.copernicusfdn.org/" hours="" price=""> A Polish Cultural Center in Jefferson Park, housed in the old Gateway Theater movie palace. They host community events and classes throughout the year; highlights include the Polish Film Festival [1] in November and the Taste of Polonia [2] at the end of August.</see>

[edit] Do

The historic Portage Theater
The historic Portage Theater

[edit] Buy

[edit] Polish Village

The battle for fashion, Polish Village
The battle for fashion, Polish Village

Aside from these, there are a few clothing and accessory stores that don't bother with names. Inside, you'll see a woman sitting in a folding chair, frowning at the floor, resolutely undelighted by the possibility of you entering the store. Don't be put off — she'd do the same for anyone.

  • <buy name="Euro One Design" alt="" address="3023 N Milwaukee Ave" directions="56 Milwaukee bus" phone="+1 773 384-9335" email="" fax="" url="" hours="M-Sa 10AM-8PM, Su 10AM-6PM" price=""> Search no further: here are the diamond-checkered sweaters you were always meant to have. Euro One Design stocks Polish and Eastern European fashions for women, with a decent selection for men.</buy>
  • <buy name="Eva's Polish Bookstore" alt="" address="3034 N Milwaukee Ave" directions="56 Milwaukee bus" phone="+1 773 276-0826" email="" fax="" url="" hours="M-Sa 10AM-7PM, 10AM-4PM" price=""> Almost certainly the largest selection of Polish books in Chicago.</buy>
  • <buy name="Little Poland's Dollar Plus Store" alt="Polski Sklep" address="3067 N Milwaukee Ave" directions="56 Milwaukee bus" phone="+1 773 478-0752" email="" fax="" url="" hours="9AM-10PM" price=""> Most of the space is given over to standard-issue dollar store junk, but this one stands out not only for the frenetic burst of verbiage on the sign — and the even more effusive exterior walls — but also the small, terrific selection of Polish souvenirs. (While not expensive, most do cost more than a dollar.)</buy>
  • <buy name="Syrena" alt="" address="3004 N Milwaukee Ave" directions="56 Milwaukee bus" phone="+1 773 489-4435" email="" fax="" url="" hours="M-Sa 10AM-8PM, Su 10AM-6PM" price=""> The alpha and omega of department stores in Avondale. Frills, lace, fabric roses, and more fill the rows of Polish fashion for women of all ages at Syrena. Even from outside, it's quite a sight.</buy>

[edit] Others

The elusive Mr. Steer, Portage Park
The elusive Mr. Steer, Portage Park

The Portage Park intersection of Cicero, Milwaukee, and Irving Park is known as the Six Corners. In the 1950s, that was the commercial epicenter of the Northwest Side, and one of the busiest in the entire city. These days, it's a mix of a few chains and some intriguing, boarded-up old businesses — check out Mr. Steer and the weird Hummel-meets-Star-Trek collection at the old Crown Gift Shop, both across from the Portage Theater.

  • <buy name="City Newsstand" alt="" address="4018 N Cicero Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 545-7377" email="" fax="" url="" hours="7AM-11PM" price=""> An estimated 60 newspapers and 6,000 magazines from everywhere and south of there, with imports from Prague, Italy, and some kid's basement in Omaha. If it's in print, you stand a very good chance of finding it here.</buy>
  • <buy name="Fantasy Costumes" alt="" address="4065 N Milwaukee Ave" directions="56 Milwaukee bus" phone="+1 773 777-0222" email="" fax="" url="" hours="M-Sa 9:30AM-8PM, Su 10AM-6PM, open later and busy around Halloween, naturally" price=""> A huge, wonderfully cluttered costume shop in Portage Park, covering almost a full city block. A massive selection of props, costumes, and wigs for kids and adults are available for sale or rental.</buy>
  • <buy name="Lincoln Antique Mall" alt="" address="3115 W Irving Park Rd" directions="80 Irving Park bus" phone="+1 773 604-4700" email="" fax="" url="" hours="11AM-7AM" price=""> An intriguing antique mall in Irving Park with space for dozens of dealers whose eras and offerings vary from Spanish oil paintings to vintage cookbooks. Reportedly, it's a favorite stop for film set designers.</buy>
  • <buy name="Polonia" alt="" address="4738 N Milwaukee Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 481-6968, +1 800 210-6451" email="books@polonia.com" fax="+1 773 481-6972" url="http://www.polonia.com" hours="M-Sa 10AM-6PM" price="">A very wide selection of Polish books, films, and especially Polish language learning materials. It's a bit of a Polish-American center too, sporting a coffee shop and even an art gallery.</buy>
  • <buy name="Sears" alt="" address="4730 W Irving Park Rd" directions="80 Irving Park bus" phone="+1 773 202-2000" email="" fax="" url="http://www.searsarchives.com/stores/history_chicago_irving.htm" hours="M-Sa 9AM-9PM, Su 10AM-7PM" price=""> This was a million-dollar store when it was built in the 1930s, and it still thrives despite the economic downturn at the Six Corners. Nothing fancy, but the building has some interest as a retail time capsule of sorts.</buy>

[edit] Eat

Chicago's love affair with Polish sausages runs deep
Chicago's love affair with Polish sausages runs deep

As Hyde Park is to academics, as the Near North is to department stores, so Avondale is to Polish sausages. Cavernous delis line the streets here, particularly up Milwaukee and Belmont. They're a sight to see even if you're not after some czarnina (blood duck soup). A ride on the 56 Milwaukee bus makes for a pretty good off-the-beaten-path culinary tour.

[edit] Budget

[edit] Mid-range

Red Apple and full stomach, Polish Village
Red Apple and full stomach, Polish Village

[edit] Splurge

[edit] Drink

If you're looking for swinging Polish nightlife, check the options nearby in Belmont-Cragin, too.

  • <drink name="Abbey Pub" alt="" address="3420 W Grace st" directions="Belmont Blue Line" phone="+1 773 478-4408" email="" fax="" url="http://www.abbeypub.com/" hours="Box office 11AM-2AM" price="$8-20"> One of Chicago's essential music venues. The Irish trappings aside, the Abbey Pub does a wider range of great music than almost anywhere else in the city — from surrealist hip hop to English folk rock, with loud stuff, Irish stuff, bluegrass stuff, and foot-stomping stuff thrown in.</drink>
  • <drink name="Bim Bom Lounge" alt="" address="5226 W Belmont Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 777-2120" email="" fax="" url="" hours="Su-F 10AM-2AM, Sa 10AM-3AM" price=""> The warped sheet-metal facade outside leads to a friendly Polish punk/rock/metal bar with an especially fierce foosball scene.</drink>
  • <drink name="Cafe Lura" alt="" address="3184 N Milwaukee Ave" directions="Belmont Blue Line" phone="+1 773 736-3033" email="" fax="" url="" hours="Su-F 5PM-2AM, Sa 5PM-3AM" price="Cover for bands $5-$10, otherwise free"> A gloomy (and almost block-long) exterior houses a cheerful bar/cafe with Polish DJs and rock bands, Polish/Czech beer and food, and faux-medieval atmosphere for a Euro-style night at the club.</drink>
  • <drink name="Capitol Club" alt="" address="4244 N Milwaukee Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 685-1194" email="" fax="" hours="" price="" url="http://www.capitolclub.com/"> DJs and European sports broadcasts mix up the many pheromones flying around the mirrored walls of this late-night dance club, popular with Polish immigrants. English is spoken, but it's not the first language here.</drink>
  • <drink name="Chief O'Neill's" alt="" address="3471 N Elston Ave" directions="Addison Red Line" phone="+1 773 583-3066" email="" fax="" url="http://www.chiefoneillspub.com/" hours="M-Th 4PM-2AM, F 3PM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM, Su 10AM-2AM" price=""> Colorful Irish pub in Avondale with a beer garden and very popular food, including Sunday brunch (10:30AM-3PM).</drink>
  • <drink name="Club 40" alt="Czterdziestka" address="3119 N Central Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 777-1231" email="" fax="" url="" hours="M-F 4PM-2AM, Sa 4PM-3AM, Su 12PM-2AM" price=""> A Polish nightclub for the over-40 set, with the '80s Euro-pop, decor, disco balls and glass walls that the Polish over-40 set like in their nightclubs. In other words, not your average Chicago dive.</drink>
  • <drink name="Edison Park Inn" alt="" address="6713 N Olmsted Ave" directions="Edison Park Metra" phone="+1 773 775-1404" email="" fax="" url="http://www.edisonparkinn.net/" hours="Su-Th 11AM-2AM, Sa 11AM-3AM" price=""> Two-floor pub with food and plenty of games, including pool tables and eight lanes of bowling.</drink>
  • <drink name="Small Bar" alt="" address="2956 N Albany Ave" directions="" phone="+1 773 509-9888" email="" fax="" url="http://www.thesmallbar.com/" hours="Su-F 4PM-2AM, Sa 4PM-3AM" price=""> Actually quite small, but with an exemplary beer selection. There's more (and better) food than the usual dive.</drink>

[edit] Sleep

The vast majority of hotels in the area are clustered around O'Hare International Airport, not the neighborhoods. The ones that are in residential areas are not in the luxury class, and a couple of owners are notorious for running crime-ridden flophouses. Definitely cast a careful eye over the block and the rooms before you decide to stay there.

Some of the Lincoln Avenue motels are within easy reach, and the Chicagoland suburb of Niles, further down Milwaukee Avenue, has a few places to stay as well.

[edit] Contact

Being heavily residential areas, the neighborhoods of the Far Northwest Side are dotted with small branch libraries that offer free public internet access.

  • <listing name="Oriole Park Branch" alt="" directions="Harlem Blue Line" address="7454 W Balmoral Ave" phone="+1 312 744-1965" email="" fax="" url="http://www.chipublib.org/002branches/oriole/oriole.html" hours="M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM" price=""> Big, new library near the Oriole Park fieldhouse in Norwood Park.</listing>
  • <listing name="Roden Branch" alt="" directions="Norwood Park Metra/68 Northwest Highway bus" address="6083 N Northwest Hwy" phone="+1 312 744-1478" email="" fax="" url="http://www.chipublib.org/002branches/roden/roden.html" hours="M-Th 9AM-9PM, F-Sa 9AM-5PM" price=""> Way out on the fringes of the city in Norwood Park.</listing>

[edit] Get out

  • The Chicago Polish community flows over these district boundaries, with more to be found on Milwaukee Avenue to the north (in Niles) and to the south (in Logan Square, and Wicker Park, and Belmont-Cragin), and also notably in the Midway area.
  • The Chicagoland suburb of Park Ridge, a couple of minutes down Touhy Avenue/Northwest Highway from Edison Park, has the amazing Pickwick, a giant classic movie theater that's still in regular use for second-run movies and occasional holiday revivals.

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