• See
• Do
• Buy
• Drink
• Sleep
• Get out

The turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf along the Corniche, with the Marina Mall in the background

Abu Dhabi [1] is the federal capital of the United Arab Emirates and the largest city of the emirate of Abu Dhabi. It is one of the most modern cities in the world and the center of government in the UAE.

[edit] Understand

With a population of just under 1.5 million, Abu Dhabi is headquarters to a number of oil operating companies. Embassies are based here as well. With only 420,000 citizens in the entire emirate, each has a theoretical net worth of $17 million, and Abu Dhabi has been described by CNN as the richest city in the world. The city features large gardens and parks, green boulevards lining all the streets and roads, sophisticated high-rise buildings, international luxury hotel chains and opulent shopping malls.

Long viewed as a staid bureaucratic outpost entirely lacking in neighboring Dubai's pizazz, things started to change radically in 2004 after long-ruler Sheikh Zayed passed away and his son Sheikh Khalifa took over. In a bid to attract tourism and investment, land sales to foreigners were allowed, restrictions on alcohol were loosened and several massive projects are under way, with the upcoming $28 billion cultural zone of Saadiyat Island and its centerpieces the Guggenheim and Louvre Museums scheduled to open in 2011. It remains to be seen how well the strategy will work, but the city is certainly experiencing a construction boom.

[edit] Orientation

Scale model of Saadiyat Island, with the Guggenheim up front

The core of Abu Dhabi is a wedge-shaped island connected to the mainland by the Maqta and Musaffah bridges. The wide end of the wedge forms the city center, with the Corniche running along the coast and a road variously known as Airport Rd or Sheikh Rasheed bin Saeed al Maktoum St running lengthwise out to the bridges.

Street addresses in Abu Dhabi are simultaneously very logical and hopelessly confusing. Many roads have traditional names, like "Airport Rd", which may not correspond to the official names, like "Maktoum St", and the city is divided into traditional districts like "Khalidiyya". However, by recent decree the city has been split up into numbered "zones" and "sectors", with all roads in each sector numbered, First St, Second St, etc, and the vast majority of street signs only refer to these. The system of main streets is straight forward enough once you realize that the odd numbered streets run across the island and the even numbers run along it. So First St is in fact the Corniche, and the odd numbers continue out of town to 31st St which is near the new Khalifa Park. Airport Rd is Second St and the even numbers continue to the east through to 10th St by Abu Dhabi Mall. On the west side of Ariport Rd, the numbers go from 22nd Street to 32nd St by the new Bateem Marina. Alas, confusion is caused by the local streets which are on green signs (main streets are on blue signs) and are also called First, Second etc. Most locals opt to ignore the system entirely, and the best way to give instructions is thus navigating by landmarks, if taking a taxi, odds are you will get to "behind the Hilton Baynunah" much faster than "Fifth Street, Sector 2".

[edit] Get in

[edit] By plane

Abu Dhabi Airport

Abu Dhabi International Airport (Template:IATA) (Template:ICAO) is the UAE's second busiest airport (after Dubai) and the home base of Abu Dhabi's flag carrier Etihad. Launched only in 2003, Etihad has been expanding furiously and now flies everywhere from the United States to Australia, and its services (particularly on long-haul flights) are remarkably good in all classes.

Despite its slightly dingy appearance and the spectacularly bizarre blue-lime tiled mushroom canopy that awaits you at the gates, the airport itself is quite well-maintained, if a little overcrowded at peak hours around midnight. The airport is currently undergoing a major expansion which is proposed to be completed by 2010. Picking up luggage is also quite easy, although be forewarned that airport personnel may remove a flight's bags from the carousel and stack them in a pile next to it, as the airport has few baggage carousels. Al Ghazal taxis travel to the city at a flat rate of Dhs.75 and take around 40 mins. Public bus route 901 also heads to the city every 30-45 minutes and costs just Dhs.

A viable alternative is to fly to Dubai instead, and continue onward by bus or, if really in a hurry, by taxi. A metered Dubai airport taxi direct to the town center will cost about Dhs 300.

If you are flying on Etihad, complimentary shuttle buses are provided at regular intervals to the centre of Abu Dhabi and to Dubai. These depart from the main car park at the front of the airport, by the car hire offices.

[edit] By bus

[edit] By road

The five-laned highway between Dubai and Abu Dhabi is the country's heaviest-traveled route, and the 170-km journey can be covered in two hours. While there is a notional speed limit of 160 km/h, this is often wildly exceeded by young Emiratis and the highway sees over 20 accidents monthly &mdash. Stay out of the leftmost lane and drive carefully, especially at night.

[edit] Get around

The best way to get around if you haven't rented a car is by taxi. Basic white-and-gold taxis with green signs on top are ubiquitous and crossing town won't cost more than Dhs5 ($1.50) or so. However, slightly more luxurious cabs like Al Ghazal and National — which monopolize the hotels — charge anywhere from Dhs. 8 to 25.

If you're staying at a hotel, there are normally taxis waiting outside in the parking lot. You are not expected to tip cab drivers, but gratuity will be VERY appreciated. Many taxi drivers are displaced persons, far from their home countries and families, so don't be surprised if they take out pictures of family members for you to comment on.

The Department of Transport has recently introduced a public bus network (30th of June 2008) consisting of 4 routes. All services are ""free"" until further notice. All buses are Air Conditioned however, non wheelchair accessible. Passengers can board and alight at the designated stops along the route. These locations can be identified by the temporary Department of Transport bus stop poles. Please note bus stops which do not have the DoT bus stop sign may not be serviced as not all bus stops along the route are used.

The four main lines include:

Route 5: Al Meena to Marina Mall via Abu Dhabi Mall and Hamden Street Every 10 minutes 6:30AM-11:30PM Route 7: Abu Dhabi Mall to Marina Mall via Zayed the 1st Street (also known as Electra) Every 10 minutes 6:30AM-11:30PM Route 32: Sports City Carrefour to Marina Mall via Airport Road, Bus Station and Zayed the 1st St Every 20 minutes 6AM-10:40PM Route 54: Sports City Carrefour to Abu Dhabi Mall via East Read, Bus Station and Hamden Street Every 20 minutes 6AM-11PM An Additional 6 routes will be added in August 2008. For more information about Abu Dhabi Bus Services please call 800-5555. An information website is currently under development.

[edit] By car

Unless they are very aggressive drivers or accustomed to reckless road behaviour, most visitors find the Emirati style of driving far too dangerous to be willing to get behind the wheel themselves. Those who do should be aware that any traffic accidents between locals and expats will ultimately mean that the expat is deemed at fault in most cases. Rented cars/visitors are not treated differently if they get into a car accident. However, it must be known that if you do get in a car accident that you should never move your car unless 1) you are asked by the police to do so over the phone, or 2) the police ask you to move it upon their arrival to the scene. It doesn't matter how you feel about your car blocking three lanes in the middle of the rush hour while waiting for the police. If you move your car, you will be in some serious trouble. Tests for alcohol can also be administered, and even the blood-alcohol level rise from a glass of wine will be ground for one month's incarceration.

If you do decide to take the plunge, beware that the street numbering system is unusual and it can take 30-45 days to get used to it. U-Turns are allowed at almost every intersection. When the left lane signal turns green, you simply have to swing a U-turn and come back. One tip – whatever other flaws drivers here may have, they do not run red lights. There are cameras at many intersections, fines are high (US$100-150), and residents who are not citizens can be deported for running too many red lights. When the light turns yellow, that taxi in front of you will jam on the brakes, and you should, too. But when the light turns green, expect someone behind you to honk at you within the first 1.2 milliseconds to get you moving.

[edit] See

Abu Dhabi has several large green spaces, many of which include play areas and equipment for children. The best park by far is the newly opened US$50million Khalifa Park (off Al Salam St (8th) near the Grande Mosque) which has its own aquarium, museum, train, play parks and formal gardens. The city is studded with lovely fountains, swathes of neon light, and the occasional sculpture.

Abu Dhabi sits on the Arabian Sea, while referred to on western maps as the Persian Gulf, the Arabs of the Emirates prefer their traditional name for the sea and can become offended with the westernization of their region. As Abu Dhabi is a trading port it is possible on most days to observe boats and ships of all sorts going about their business. This part of the Gulf is also home to a set of man-made islands called the Lulu Islands, part of a tourism venture that is currently still in development.

The Yas Island project commenced construction in two phases during 2007. Yas Island occupies a total land area of 2,500 hectares, of which 1,700 hectares will be claimed for development. The Island will feature attractions such as a world-class motor sports racetrack, signature hotels, the Ferrari theme park, water park, and the Abu Dhabi destination retail development of 300,000 sq m retail area, links and parkland golf courses, lagoon hotels, marinas, polo clubs, apartments, villas and numerous food and beverage outlets that will create a unique international tourist destination.

[edit] Do

Abu Dhabi offers little in the way of historical or cultural sights, but there are several unique stops that no visitor should miss.

• Cultural Events The Abu Dhabi Cultural Centre has become a landmark in the Emirates and holds cultural events and workshops throughout the year. It has a well-stocked library, children's programs, art exhibitions, benefits, and other culture-related activities that are the hallmark of any city. It's well worth a look.

• High Tea The Emirates Palace is a luxury hotel on the water. Not as contemporary as other Emirates hotels such as the Burj in Dubai, the Emirates Palace is an elegant and intricate building swathed in gold and marble. Tea here is a nice treat in the afternoon.

• Swimming Nearly all hotels and private clubs in Abu Dhabi offer swimming facilities, usually in the form of private beaches. You can pay for a day's use, or for a year's. Another, notably cheaper, option is The Club, an organization geared towards expatriates.

• Lessons Some hotels also offer dance lessons, aerobics classes, and other physical entertainment.

• The official sport of the Emirates is shopping, and Abu Dhabi offers millions of opportunities in this area (see below).

[edit] Buy

Abu Dhabi is a compulsive shopper's dream. There are several malls, most of which have the same stores as other malls. Besides establishments aimed at locals, malls also include popular English, American, and Canadian chain stores, as well as designer places. Many visitors will be surprised at the female fashion dichotomy - while local custom calls for women to be covered in public, most stores sell short skirts and halter tops alongside the more sedate floor-length skirts and high-necked shirts.

• Abu Dhabi Mall is a three story shopping mall located in Tourist Club Area, adjacent to the Beach Rotana Hotel.

• Marina Mall boasts a musical fountain and ceilings that thunder and rain. It is located in the Water Breaker area near the magnificent Emirates Palace. It also contains one of two Carrefour hypermarkets in town and the Abu Dhabi branch of IKEA.

• "Al Wahda Mall", opened in 2007, is a large, modern mall in the center of downtown (11th and 4th Streets). Stores are high-end, the food court is extensive, and the LuLu Hypermart in the basement is probably the largest grocery and dry goods store in, well, anywhere.

There are also millions of small, independent stores around the city. On the bottom floor of one building, a person can purchase fancy chocolates, computer parts, antiques, and clothing. It is better to purchase things like carpets, art, native jewelry, and antiques at the independent or souk-like places than at the malls, as the price will be lower and the shopkeepers more willing to haggle.

Bargaining is a big part of shopping in the Emirates, but be prudent. Don't bargain at Marks and Spencer or Hang Ten. Save your discounting skills for independent shops dealing in antiques and the like.

Shopping in most places can be frustrating, as the clerks will follow you around the store. This is partly due to their concept of what constitutes good service, and partly because there is a shoplifting problem. Most will not be intrusive, but some employees can be very pushy and overly obsequious. Smile and thank them often, and you're more likely to be left alone after a bit.

In carpet stores - or anywhere that sells tapestries, Indian antiques, and the like don't feel too pressured to buy, and don't be shocked if they start unrolling beautiful rug after beautiful rug at your feet. You are under no obligation to buy, no matter how much time they spend with you. However, the pressure will be very steady, and shyer shoppers may want to travel in packs for comfort's sake.

Grocery stores such as Spinney's, Carrefours, and the Abu Dhabi Cooperative Society are inexpensive and usually stocked with Western goods. Be careful to examine all produce before purchasing. Visitors wishing to purchase pork products will likely have to enter a separate room to do so, as no nationals are permitted in these sections of the grocery stores.

Prices in Abu Dhabi tend to be very competitive, and there is no tax.

General discount season - end of the year and midyear. These are the time where you can get some branded items with a very low price, maybe last season stock ... but who cares?

[edit] Eat

Abu Dhabi is host to a wide range of palates and ethnicities when it comes to cuisine. Lebanese/Arabic food is usually the cheapest. Hotel restaurants are usually the most expensive. The city is home to all manner of fast food like McDonald's and Hardees, but there is little call for most people to eat at those places. Some of the best and cheapest food in the city can be found at its many Indian restaurants. Portions are almost always generous, prices low, and quality excellent. Some foreign residents complained of a lack of good Chinese food, but several Chinese restaurants have been openned in recent years and serve authentic and contemparary Chinese food.

The fun thing about Abu Dhabi is that everywhere, literally from tiny falafel shacks to the cushy hotel restaurants to Burger King, delivers to anywhere in the city. Delivery is quick and reliable, and usually doesn't cost extra.

Vegetarians will find the city's selection of meals very satisfying. Vegetable and bean-heavy native dishes, the array of splendid pure vegetarian Indian cuisine, and the ready availability of fresh salads make eating in Abu Dhabi a stress-free experience. Strict vegans may have a little difficulty communicating their precise demands, but most places offer vegan dishes and are always willing to accommodate a paying customer.

Visitors should always check the Islamic calendar to determine whether they will be visiting during the month of Ramadan. Since Muslims fast during daylight hours, restaurants are, by law, closed during the day. It is also against the law to eat or drink anything, even water, in public and tourists (and non-Muslim residents) have been arrested and given fines. Large hotels generally have one restaurant open during the day to serve meals to non-Muslims. During the evening, however, it's quite a different story, as the festive atmosphere of Iftar begins and residents gather for lavish, Thanksgiving-like meals. As long as you don't mind tiding yourself over in private, the evening meals are magnificent.

[edit] Budget

==at), Felafel (Lentils), and Farouj (Broiled chicken).

[edit] Splurge

• Rodeo Grill at and Tower is an excellent steak house that is a bit pricey.
• Prego's at the Beach Rotana Hotel is a very good Italian restaurant with a good wine selection, and an Artichoke dip appetizer to die for
• Benihana at the Beach Rotana Hotel is the world famous Teppan-yaki chain

[edit] Drink

Only restaurants located in hotels are allowed to serve alcohol. Therefore, all nightlife is associated with hotels. The drinking age is 21, but most places don't care. Unlike some other Middle Eastern nations, the bars in Abu Dhabi will be able to accommodate most drink orders.

Technically, you are supposed to purchase a permit to buy alcohol for private storage, although Spinney's and other liquor stores usually take proof that you aren't a local Muslim (a military ID or driver's license.)

• Hemingway's, Hilton Abu Dhabi (Corniche West) – There are three different places inside. The main restaurant has a good tex-mex menu, a wide selection of beer on tap and features live music in the evening. Jazz Bar – The second venue, has great food and a good jazz band. The band normally changes every six months or so, but the quality is consistent and they take requests. The bartenders normally put on a show by tossing bottles around while mixing a mean cocktail. The third place is Tequiliana's, a nightclub that normally gets going after midnight. The venue also features two private karaoke rooms located in the back. The music depends on the DJ, and ranges from great to not so good.

• The Captain's Arms Le Meridien (Eastern Abu Dhabi) – Traditional British pub located in the hotel courtyard. The pub features traditional food and a great selection of beer on tap. The large terrace is great during the cooler months of the year. A typical hang-out for the expat crowd.

• Wakatua, Le Meridien (Eastern Abu Dhabi) is a Polynesian-themed cocktail bar located at the far end of the courtyard, right on the water. The cocktails are amazing. The Navy Grog is highly recommended.

• Rock Bottom, at the Capital Hotel, is one of the most popular night club locations in all of Abu Dhabi. It stays open later than most venues, and is cheaper. If you get there early enough, they have decent food you can enjoy in the restaurant area. They have both a live band and an excellent DJ, along with black lights and lasers. There is even a hot dog stand later in the night, providing some delicious drunk snacks. Thur nights can get extremely crowded, be warned.

• The Embassy is a fairly new nightclub in The Emirates Palace Hotel. Though drinks are expensive, it is worth a visit. The grand hotel is a must-see in Abu Dhabi and the actual club is nicely decorated, comfortable, has great service, a balcony overlooking the hotel grounds, and provides a fun time with great music and very colorful laser shows.

• Sax is a popular night club located in The Royal Meridian Hotel (not to be confused with Le Meridian Hotel). Next door to the restaurant/bar "Oceans", Sax is a beautifully decorated club with sleek black marble floors, two bars, a DJ, and depending on the time, a Jazz band. The club is often very loud and very dark with little more than lasers lighting the room. It's not a place to go if you expect to talk at all, at least not on a weekend night. Collared shirts are required for men, and sneakers usually don't pass the bouncers either. It's not uncommon to have to pay an entry fee.

• PJ's is a 'traditional' Irish Pub in the Royal Meridian Hotel, boasting brunch buffets and a long happy hour. The majority of the guests are usually English/British/American/Australian. There is something entertaining going on every day of the week, from 'Quiz Night' to 'Ladies Night'. If you want to start drinking early, this is the place to go. No one will bat an eye if you order beer with brunch, and you'll probably find yourself staying for more than one round. The music earlier in the day is a mix of oldies and rock with faster-tempo songs for the late night crowd. This is also a great place to come to watch sports, as the quiet daytime atmosphere and televisions throughout ensure a pleasant experience. The outdoor seating near the hotel's pool is also a great asset on cooler days.

• Zenith at the Sheraton Corniche is nicely decorated club and has a nice sized dance floor. If you like the local Abu Dhabi crowd and Arabic music, this is a great place to go. The drinks can be expensive,but the presentation is entertaining. Just around the corner is a quiet outside venue where you can drink and smoke sheesha near a pond.

• Trader Vic's is a famous cocktail bar/restaurant located in The Beach Rotana Hotel (connected to The Abu Dhabi Mall). The flattering lighting, interesting menu, and soft but fun island music make this a great place for a date or hanging out with people you actually want to talk to. The cocktail menu is pages long, and ordering a complicated fruity concoction is a must. The drinks may be a little on the expensive side at times, but the atmostphere is great. Try ordering one of their two or four person drinks, which come in a giant fishbowl. They're a lot of fun if you don't mind sharing!

• 49ers is a steakhouse/bar. It is often quoted as "More of a meat market than a steakhouse" because of its solid reputation for prostitution. I wouldn't recommend a non-prostitute woman going there. It is uncomfortable and the men in the bar will probably assume you are for sale. The Novotel Hotel and The Sands Hotel are also notorious for their nightclubs that men frequent when looking to purchase a date for the night.

• Heroes is a friendly sports grill/bar. Located in The Crowne Hotel's basement, it offers reasonable meals, and fair drink prices. The bar is often full of men and women watching various sports games on television. Later at night they have a DJ and a live band that play softer rock songs. It is a pleasant place to hang out with friends, though the lack of windows or ventilation can make it stuffy and smoke-filled quickly.

• Mardi Gras is a small restaurant/bar located in The Capital Hotel. Its ambiance reminds one of a spa. The service is good, the drinks are reasonable, and the food is tasty. The band often leaves much to be desired, but the DJ can please the crowd. England's own DJ Sy will grace the decks starting March 2008.

[edit] Sleep

The over-the-top opulence of the Emirates Palace

Hotels in Abu Dhabi are generally half price compared to Dubai, but you'll still be looking at well north of US$100/night. However, all are well-tended and host to first class restaurants, pools, and other high-end hotel facilities.

• Le Royal Meridien[2]
• Sheraton Abu Dhabi Hotel & Resort[3]
• InterContinental Abu Dhabi[4]
• Le Meridien Abu Dhabi[5]
• Beach Rotana Hotel And Tower[6]
• International Rotana Inn Hotel[7]
• Millennium Hotel Abu Dhabi[8]
• Sheraton Khalidiya Hotel[9]
• Hilton Corniche Residence[10]

[edit] Get out

The Beautiful and peaceful Iranian Kish Island is near by.

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